Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have an R32 GTR with moderate mods including exhaust, airfilters, z32 airflow meters, apexi power fc, apexi avc-r, hks gt2530 turbos, rebuilt engine with forged internals and extensive head porting job.

The car was tuned last night, and its running good (no more puffs of white smoke as you come onto boost), but the tuner mentioned the ignition system could use an upgrade and reccomended moving to a CDI style ignition system.

Now im not totally familiar with this area of cars, so what are peoples input on this? Is the Splitfire system I always see for sale for $1000+ a CDI system, and would it work OK?

Any help/advice/input would be most appreciated, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32625-cdi-ignition-systems/
Share on other sites

As far as I know, Splitfire coils do help produce a larger spark than stock coils however it is not a CDI.

A CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) is an add-on box which amplifys the charge of the spark during combustion.

I have an Autronic CDI in my car as the ECU is also an Autronic. HKS have the Twin Power Ignition Amplifier, Motec also has it's own CDI.

CDIs usually retail for around the $1000-$1500 mark depending on the brand and the size of the charge it can produce.

Thanks for the input :D Ive been looking at the HKS unit, anyone use this?

And how much do the Autronic ones go for, and who sells them? I was going to use this money for intercooler/camshafts but seems this wont be happening :D

Hi Amaru, we use the standard coils up to 650 bhp (400 rwkw), no problems, with plug gaps at 0.8 mm. For over 700 bhp we use the Motec CDI unit with Mercury Outboard coils as they are designed to be used with CDI.

BTW, CDI is not an amplifier of the spark, it provides a multiple firing of the coil for each ignition, not one, single, long spark as is standard (non CDI). Consequently you need a coil that is specifically designed to be fired in multiples, very rapidly.

So CDI with standard coils is pretty much a waste of money and if you are under 650 bhp I wouldn't worry about changing from the standard setup anyway, provided it is in good condition of course.

Hope that helps

what coils work with multi spark for rb25's??

(when doing my conversion i just jumped head first, and went with what the work shop did.)

i think back i could prob do it harf price to what i paid ,well live and learn, i do everything i can my self now.

sorry just that i forgot i even had cdi!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...