Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so a while back i ask this guy at a shop to put some wheels on my car to see if i liked em before i bought them..I didnt like them and while he was doin it the numpty busted one of my studs on the rear

Now i thought this was pretty straight forward but now i found out the handbrake is in the rear of the disc hub....

So can anyone tell me is this an easy fix or.not can i just slip the disc off and replace it or is it more complicated..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326567-snapped-a-wheel-stud/
Share on other sites

No advice re the handbrake but shouldnt the shop that snapped your stud be paying for you to get a new one installed? Any grease monkey worth their weight should know how to torque a rato gun correctly!

hmm i would making the shop that did that fix it because its a pain to change the rear ones, you have to losen off the handbrake cables then remove the disk before you can change the stud i have to put one on my car as well just waiting on my slotted rear rotors, i bougth new handbrake shoes because i thought if i was pulling it all apart i may as well change everything.

pretty simple to do.

1. loosen handbrake

2.take brake pads off

3. take rotor off(should slip off)

4. hammer the bad studd out(might take a long time) spray it with wd/40 or some kind of lubricant.

5. slip the new one in (little handy tip get a wheel nut and put it on the new studd do it up until the studd is tight in place.)

6. put everything back on.

IMO you should probably replace all the studs now - if one has been over tightened (and therefore stretched and weaker) chances are that the others have as well. And they're kind of important so don't skimp! From my experience all tyre shop monkeys overtighten a LOT because they think tighter=better.

Oh, and you might be able to use a tie rod separator or something like that to the the old stud out.

Also, it might be difficult to get the tyre shop that broke the stud to replace it - they may say (and might be right) that it was damaged before they got to it. Of course if you've seen some idiot on the end of a 600mm breaker bar putting is all into doing up the nut, different story.

I agree. Do the lot. A suspension joint broke 2 of mine, but showed me that they actually had a copy of the r33 manual showing to do them up at, from memory, 110nm, and had set the gun to that, and it went pop.

Shit happens, the guy was genuine, and it's an old part which definitely gets its share of wear. I bought 20 new studs genuine from nissan and they set me back roughly $50 and 2 hours of my time, and now I know another part of my car is new.

Just make sure you put the nut on the bolt before you hit any of the studs out with a hammer and you should have no great difficulty figuring this out.

Thanks guys,the guy who did it forgot to put the airgun on undo,and was trying to tighten the already tighened bolt..i figured id rather not let him do any more work on my car, plus i wasnt paying them anything so couldnt complain..These things happen..

Will do replace all of them, may as well...As it seems fairly straight forward..

the only thing to add....is go easy on the bashing if that is how you take them out...it is horribly bad for the bearings.

Like Adam said one of those ball joint seperators (check out the cool tool thread) would be a safer way to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...