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Nismo 300kph dash cluster problem

soopamarcus

By soopamarcus,
in Forced Induction Performance

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soopamarcus Enthusiast

soopamarcus

Posted
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Anyone had experience with these...they are basically a nismo speed + odo

which directly replaces ur original speedo + odo

I installed one in my r33...but the speedo isnt reading properly (im doing wot feels like 60-70..but speedo shows only 20kph)..

Is there any special tricks involved..like re-calibration etc?

thankx

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soopamarcus Enthusiast

soopamarcus

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really? thankx dOOd...but the thing was...this speedo wasnt fresh outta the box..it had previously been on another r33..

so would i really need to recalibrate again?! that part didnt make sense to me...

unless the calibration got knocked out..?

wots it cost to calibrate neways?!

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Miss*33 Rising Star

Miss*33

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I'm not sure how much it costs, I had mine done under warranty through the car yard because it was not reading correctly when I purchased the car. Mine was not new either and had previously been on another car.

Any guage place should be able to do it for you though. Just do a search on www.yellowpages.com.au for 'gauge'. There are pages of places listed that should be able to help.

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51jay Mentor

51jay

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I have that instrument cluster, all the wireing seems to be printed circuit stuff how could it "decalibrate", Mine is actually a Nismo GTR cluster...no boost gauge... but it still worked perfectly in my GTS25T

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soopamarcus Enthusiast

soopamarcus

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yeah! i agree wit him hehee i pull out just the speedo part...and umm it is all printed IC stuff... there is a small motor or sum sort there tho..couuld that kinda get stuck a bit and jam??

51jay: uve got the entire Nismo GTR cluster right? ive just got the 300kph speedo section installed into a standard GTS cluster..

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Cecam Enthusiast

Cecam

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On the PCB of the factory R33 speedo you will see a series of solder pads/jumpers, this calibrates the unit. Ie an automatic uses double the signal pulses of a manual, so take a automatic speedo (or one setup for it) and it will read half of the true speed if fitted in a manual. Don't have one in front of me, but its just a series of jumper connections on the upper left I think, each jumper is so much %, ie one jumper will add in 20kph (at what whetver hz your feeding the signal at), and the next one down will add in 10kph and next 5kph and you just jumper till its right. I assume the Nismo is the same as its basically just a new face plate and possibly geared differently, only seen a couple and that was early last year...

So you can do it yourself, or pay a few $$ get someone else to do it, will only a few minutes if they know what they're doing (plus time to remove and refit if you take the car)...

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Edge Proficient

Edge

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Cecam - where does the speed signal going to the speedo come from - is it the ecu or from a speed sensor? Also does the auto transmission computer get its speed signal from the speedo or the ecu?

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Cecam Enthusiast

Cecam

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I'm not 100% sure, but I think the speed signal might get split from the cluster and goes to the relevent ecu's (engine, auto, hicas or powersteering modual for non-hicas cars).

I know when a GTS4 lost its hicas/4wd it was the speed signal that was missing, but I never actually found its source, I ended up piggy backing off ecu pin 53.

R34's are definately from the ecu, but change the signal thats output from what I've heard.

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Edge Proficient

Edge

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The speed signal from my microtech ltx-12 ecu which goes to my auto computer may need to be altered in some way in that case.

I reset the auto ecu by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it which seemed to fix everything, but the next morning once the car got hot the same trouble came back with the gearbox failing to drop into a lower gear under full throttle at 70kph it stays in 4th.

So I am assuming the speed signal is not right going through from the LTX-12 to the auto computer.

Where is a good place to get the auto computer looked at in Sydney?

Wonder why it only seems to be an issue when the car gets hot.

Other symptoms are the overdrive button stopped working and the oeverdrive light flicks on and off by itself when its bumpy or I hold the gearstick in first under hard acceleleration the light comes on (o/d off), then goes off again once I move the stick to second.

I am getting the front castor rods fixed up this week - front left one has split - wondering whether this affecting ABS may affect the gearbox like this?

Once I go to full stop the next accelleration is normal but if then cruise for a few moments it won't drop a gear again when I plant the accellerator.

Maybe the ecu needs to put out a normal signal to the auto computer

while the double hz frequency goes into the ltx-12 it might need to convert back to half rate Hz to go to the auto ecu?

Anyone know what is supposed to happen for R33 series 2 auto?

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soopamarcus Enthusiast

soopamarcus

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edge: just outta curiosity right...LTX-12 = 6cyl ECU...???

wots the diff with LTX-8? cuz i think thats a 6cyl ecu as well?

oh and has anyone actually seen how the "signal" is sent into the speedo?

the 4 screws that actually hold it in place..conduct the signel thru the cluster to the speedo..a fren showed me that..cool stuff! heeh

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Edge Proficient

Edge

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both ltx-8 and ltx-12 work for 6 cylinders

ltx-8 does 4 - 8 cyl

ltx-12 does 6 - 12 cyl

looking from the back of the speedo the top right screw directly behind the speedo conducts the signal to the ecu.

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