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You can drive it, just dont get carried away and go boosting everywhere when you havent done the pump or got a tune for all you know your AF ratios could be very lean, ideally youd want to have it all done and send in for tune but if you must drive take it easy til its done.

Stao said the turbo he can suply will be a 6 bolt rear so il have to check that. Thanks. I can make new pipework just didn't want to replace my dump pipe. Are the stock ic pipes 2.5 inch?

And I got quoted $405 for a Bosch 040. Does that sound right ?

I'm not going nistune now as it's not the cheapest option anymore so wil need to contact an apexi or haltech dealer

steven, you must be getting a highflowed OP6 (Neo Turbo) which would explain the 6 bolt rear housing, i'm pretty sure that is what hypergear does?

the stock piping is an oddball size, its not 2", and its not 2.5", its a fraction under 2.5". but when getting joiners just get 2.5" ones, some t-bolt clamps you will find wont suit though. you may be able to get the stock i/c pipework to meet up if you lengthen them a little, i added about 40mm to one just to get it out of the way of the other one that i had to add about 100mm to to get it to meet up with my GT35 (very similar in size and outlets). for the intake pipe i just started with a long 90deg bend and shorted the legs as needed. then added the return nipples.

i didn't get a bosch so i dont know whats a fair price, but $405 sounds abit expensive considering justjap have them for almost half that LINK

if your fuel system is healthy then it will be ok to run on the stock pump for starters. i ran mine on the stock pump just for a couple months before i got around to upgrading and it was fine, supplied more than enough for 1bar on a GT35, i already had a good set of 600cc injectors though. just keep in mind though that if your fuel system is under performing, and you get it tuned to that, when you finally upgrade your setup your afr's will be richer and you'll need a retune.

i'm curious as to why nistune isn't the cheapest option anymore? as a new powerfc or haltech is going to be upwards of $2000 for supply install and tune.

Edited by QWK32

Have a look in hypergear's thread. They made .82 turbines with OEM dump patterns to suit Garrett GT cores, which is probably what the OP is referring to. $405 for a Bosch 040 :D lol. Its a Ford (XR8?) OEM part which you can buy from Ford spare parts for around $150.

040 pump too expensive.

Nistune has to be the cheapest. You can get them installed and tuned for around the $800 mark.

GCG hi-flow would bolt straight on with nothing else to do. No hidden costs for intake pipes or oil and water line modifications.

Hmmm why is it always your responses that make me believe its possible to do it easily :D

The nistune is $460 plus $400 for a bigger afm and then $150 an hour for tuning, haltech is $1300ish plus tuning so I may aswell just do away with the maf sensor in favor of a map sensor

GT3071 is usually a 450hp compressor (depending on compressor trim). The compressor cover is a little smaller than a GT3076 (500hp). GT3071 has a 71mm compressor and the GT3076 has a 76mm compressor. In Garrett form the turbines are identical 60mm (there are some variations on this with some coming with 56mm turbines but the most common nowadays are the larger ones).

GCG hi-flow is pretty much a 450hp turbo but bolts straight on after all it is the factory turbo machined out for clearance for all new rotating bits.

Hypergear turbos have so many variations that it is hard to keep up but most will require some modifications to either intake or oil and water lines. Nevertheless, Stao seems to be working really hard to make great near bolt on solutions for a fair price. My recent conversation with him was enlightening on another type of turbo. He was very gracious with his time.

Z32 afm is about $320ish from forum traders. Measuring airflow rather than guessing makes the most sense to me. I would stick with a MAF based car personally.

Nistune should be about $800 installed and tuned.

Haltech will be at least 4 hrs tuning.

If you are determined to go down this path I might be interested in selling my PowerFC.

From what i have been told the highflow option just turns it into a 3071r basically. And for bolt on ease it isn't that bad of an option knowing that I have to change so much. I'm guessing the highflow will get me to my 250kw goal if I get the bigger injectors z32 afm and a nistune. The guy at efiperformance said that the z32 afm and bigger injectors will take longer to tune, that's what put me off.

From what i have been told the highflow option just turns it into a 3071r basically. And for bolt on ease it isn't that bad of an option knowing that I have to change so much. I'm guessing the highflow will get me to my 250kw goal if I get the bigger injectors z32 afm and a nistune. The guy at efiperformance said that the z32 afm and bigger injectors will take longer to tune, that's what put me off.

i was having a look on the nistune forum and i think to recalibrate the injectors and afm all you do it put them into the nistune software and it works out a new k (constant) value for the combo and puts that into the ecu - all over in under 10 mins supposedly

sounds like this tuner wants your car on his dyno

pretty sure you can source a new z32 for around $300, 2nd hand being cheaper than that (~$200 i have seen)

ok so shopping list -

gt3076r from hypergear or gt3071r hiflow from gcg - both will meet my 250awkw goal im guessing

bosch 040 ($211 + free postage from boschfuelpumps.com)

z32afm with tomei plug ($349 from justjap)

nistune install and tune

Check the forum traders for some of those parts.

The 040 and Z32 might be cheaper buying through the forum with either justjap or CRD than going directly to their websites. Go to the for sale section and see what they can offer.

Don't underestimate the stuffing around time with non-bolt on parts. I have used a HKS GT-RS on the stagea, they are relatively expensive but every nut and bolt you need comes with the kit. A true bolt-on.

On the R33 I have used a HKS cast manifold with a GT30 based turbo but you need everything from a new intake, new dump, machining of engine mounts, new pipework for the BOV, I had to move the carbon canister, had to fabricate a new heatshield for the manifold.....and more.

You either pay the turbo supplier for a bolt on solution or you pay your mechanic to make it fit.

I don't say this to talk you out of one path or another just go in with your eyes open. Lots of posts are written by people that say it is easy to do this or do that but by the time you have run around you are often well behind unless you can weld, have a garage full of tools and have time to spend under the bonnet.

Either way it will be fun getting it all sorted.

(For your power target the GCG turbo with OP6 housing (ie series 2 stagea, R34 GT-t) will make the level you are after, a G3076 will get there easily but with a penalty down low).

Nistune is still the cheapest and best - last I heard you still had an auto?

Whatever you do don't get a "cheap" tune. Investment in a good tuner will maximise the benefits of the other money you have spent and increase the chances that your motor will not go bang!

yer im starting to lean away from the gt3076r now as i dont really want to spend hours welding up new pipes. i did see the hks kit and i looks like a very good option.

ive got an rs4s.

i had alot of trouble with tuning my old celica so if i do get a tune i will make sure its perfect this time. i just cnt see how so many people can sell haltech but not be able to tune them.

it does take a little longer to tune nistune for larger injectors and afm, but it shouldn't be any longer than any other ecu. the nistune software does have a little tool to change them over for you, and it does a really good job at getting the injection multiplier close to what you need, but you will need to check the new value with a wideband O2 sensor to make sure its right. my personally experience is that it isn't exactly spot on and will need further tweaking, e.g. my car was too lean after the injector change calculations. you also have to check/change things like injector latencies and load scales.

i agree with wolverine in that its going to be harder and more time consuming, and isn't as easy as unbolt old turbo - bolt up new turbo, unless you have all the tools to do the job and can weld or know someone who can. i'm a fitter by trade so i do welding and fabrication every week, otherwise it would have taken me alot longer than 2-3 days to do the job. its all the small things you don't hear or read about that take up most of your time, e.g getting the oil and water lines customised to suit, running around picking up various bits and sizes of bolts/nuts, steel, and hose/vacuum line. i also saved abit of time by already having my injectors and afm installed and setup.

Edited by QWK32

^^ spot on

I have no particularly skills and I have changed fuel pumps, fabricated manifold heatshields, cold air induction boxes etc.

BUT

It has taken me hours of farnarckling around to get these simple jobs done (for those suitably equipped).

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