Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there

My RB25 series 2 has been playing up, and to be honest is giving me the s...ts

It has been burning white smoke for a while now, more so on low load

i replaced spark plugs that were fouled and it is running again an the smoke is pretty much gone at idle but appears when accelerating.

Most of you would say it is turbo, i have an aftermarket garrett ball bearing and it may have a leak in the oil line. The turbo feels down on power.

Now i thought it was low compression/cracked piston before the spark plugs, but with new plugs motor sounds smooth an turbo sounds and feels weak.

as a side note the car has blowby, could it be a problem other the engine thats creating it?

On deceleration the car backfires loud and frequently

also when hot it can be common to not hold idle

Any help is appreciated :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326792-whats-wrong-with-the-rb25/
Share on other sites

Best bet do a compression test first to suss that out. How much blow by are we talking? Like filling a catch can up?

well i dont have a catch can ( have to get one) but can see it spit oil out the hks pod filter, and has blown the dipstick out, seems like excess

Just double check over all the standard emission lines coming from the cam covers and make sure the one way check valve or something isn't blocked causing it to pressurise the crankcase. Probably a long shot but the dipstick blowing out is a bit strange with the standard emissions gear.

Only time a dipstick should blow out is if your crankcase can't breath through the cam covers so it finds the path of least resistance, the dip stick.

That or your engine has actually cracked the ringlands. So yep, compression test time I would say.

Edited by PM-R33

white smoke... man honestly ur saying its not the turbo yet ur saying the turbos behaving low on power... ?

Do a comp test which i think will just give u peace of mind ... more or less its the turbo..

Just double check over all the standard emission lines coming from the cam covers and make sure the one way check valve or something isn't blocked causing it to pressurise the crankcase. Probably a long shot but the dipstick blowing out is a bit strange with the standard emissions gear.

Only time a dipstick should blow out is if your crankcase can't breath through the cam covers so it finds the path of least resistance, the dip stick.

That or your engine has actually cracked the ringlands. So yep, compression test time I would say.

i will check the pcv valve an everything else again :D

put new spark plugs recently as the old ones were fouled, is idling perfect and is not blowing smoke at idle

there is some oil steaming from under the turbo when its warm.

so i am suspecting the turbo oil return line needs replacing.

Hopefully thats all it is :banana:

Silly question..... But how much oil is in the car????

It sounds a little like it has been overfilled when last serviced.....

nah its not that, it was filled correctly. ive burnt heaps lol to the point where the oil light comes on, an have refilled it a few times

First do a compression test to rule out piston rings and it just generally being a worn motor. If this comes up good then I would be looking at the turbo oil seals leaking.

You say it is white smoke, is it definitely white smoke and not blueish smoke? Because white smoke indicates burning water/coolant which creates steam and a light white smoke. Oil is generally more of a blueish tinge, if it is indeed white you could have a partially blown head gasket.

Edited by Rolls
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...