Jump to content
SAU Community

Major Problem With Headlight!

dmc32
 Share

Recommended Posts

dmc32 Rookie

dmc32

Posted
Posted

Hey all, 

First off i've read through COUNTLESS threads and posts, but have not found the answer.

Ok so I got new L.E.D's for my 2003 coupe, the parkers went in fine and are working.

So I got h1's and h4's for the regular and high beams respectively. 

I jacked the car up went through the panel and removed the front bumped blah blah, got access to the lights, removed the old regular beam globe, then replaced it with the h1, tested and it was fine. Then as I was putting the globe back in I had real trouble with the 2 metal washers getting them to lock in.

I eventually got them sort of in, and re-tested...nothing!

I'm totally lost as 2 what happened, but i'm guessing it has something to do with the metal washers.

Do they have to be touching? Like the way it was in, it had the metal washer, globe, then the other washer behind that? 

Any ideas? 

I have already taken it to an auto electrician when i was getting my window motor replaced and he said 'you'll have to take it to a panel beater as I cant get access to the lights' obviously he couldn't be bothered!

Thanks!  

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326823-major-problem-with-headlight/
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Those LED bulbs are evil. They give off wrong voltage reading to the BCM or the ECU and the car start to think something is faulty.

My bro in law had this dreaded Alfa which he changed the parker bulb to one of those LED bulb thing or something.

He complaint that if he didn't start his car for a while the battery will go flat. During one night I noticed that even at power off, one of the LED bulb are still ON! basically faintly still on emiting a very faint light - now - no wonder his battery kept getting flat. Also every time he start the car, the on-board dashboard warning will give out a "Left Light Error", "Right Light Error" message, scaring off prospective buyers which made it took us more than 6 month to get rid of the car and I had to run around replacing all the LED bulbs back to normal bulb...

I wish you luck with those bulbs. You better hope you didn't fried some circuit in the car because of that...! Some things are meant to be left alone in these cars, mate... they're not your average Datsun 120Y

dmc32 Rookie

dmc32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh really! Yeah i'm really hoping I havent fried a wire!

Their aren't any warning lights, and all the other lights on that side and everything else work, just can't get that particular regular beam to work!

Even when I changed it back to the standard globe it still would not light!

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

With H1 bulbs, the framing around the bulb is the grounding for it - so if that area isnt 'right', the bulb won't have any grounding and won't work.

I'm wondering if that's where you're having issues with these 'washers'. Poking around that area with a multimeter on the source wire, and back to the body ground should tell you if there's a problem with the grounding or something more serious, either way.

dmc32 Rookie

dmc32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh ok!

The grounding I did not know, as when I re-tried and tried I had removed the washers.

But the first time I had them clicked in it must have been close to right as they were working.

So do I just have to get the metal parts to line up and fold on set of tabs back to kind of hold it together?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...