Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used to have a gas system that used to freeze up and it was cause there wasn't enought coolant in the car......I would re fill it and the converter would like instantly de frost itself......

as GBLOCK said, J30 maxima ...

Nah the thing is it freezes up when i start it in the morning if started on gas, start it on petrol, let it run till it's all nice and warm and then flick it to gas then the converter doesnt freeze up and runs fine..

Checked the coolant, its fine still right up at the top... bled the coolant each time i changed it...

GBLOCK: Yea i'll probably take it there, but unless theres better recommendations for that... From what i've seen good gas guys are relatively hard to come by.. LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326856-gas-servicing/#findComment-5321556
Share on other sites

..I have never had this freezing problem, in 4 years..weird...

Id say ,Just start it on petrol then if that works..I know a few people who do the same..Its good to run some petrol through them anyways...If it doesnt run well on regular use high octane..Works better cause timing is usually advanced on gas..Another trick was pouring hot water (warm tap water will do) on it but thats a hassle..

Wouldnt bother trying to service it as I doubt it would make any difference, must be an old system is it?

Unless maybe the water line is full of corrosion, clean it out maybe

Edited by Arthur T3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326856-gas-servicing/#findComment-5321575
Share on other sites

Arthtur T3 - well the gas system is around 4 years old, but has never done this - only recently started doing this... to be more precise when it got cold... yea i always would run it on petrol too - bout a quarter of a tank of petrol to every tank or so of gas and open her up... so i dunno LOL...

STATUS - but how does that affect it at all? if that was the case wouldnt it be like that in summer as well? and if its plumbed in wrong, wouldn't it freeze even after the car is warm and i switch it over from petrol to gas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326856-gas-servicing/#findComment-5323672
Share on other sites

the converter is plumbed into the cooling system wrong

Would appear you have seen this before then..

Alot of people have this problem, i thought it was just older systems but 4 years is newer than mine...

So im guessing your onto something :)

So would that mean its not flowing through the convertor before thermostat opens.. Any flow would stop it from freezing and Once engine is warm Id think even the radiant heat would be enough to stop it from freezing..

*goes out in freezing cold to see how gas system is hooked up*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326856-gas-servicing/#findComment-5323798
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...