Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb/borrow - Known Working Rb25det Neo Coilpacks

ssshonky
 Share

Recommended Posts

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

ok , to cut a long story short , after a recent and very basic service , our s2 Stagea has started playing up. Initially after the service it was working just fine, running smooth as anything, After a few days it started to misfire, I was not driving the car at the time but basically it was reported that the car was juddering, this only happened about 1.5 days after the service.

The only things done on the service was plugs , oil , oil filter , so pretty basic, something I have done many times before. After my partner Loretta started complaining of the car playing up I took the coil packs out , sprayed electrical contact cleaner on everything , re assembled and checked.

The car definately feels its running on 5 cyl. I am either thinking its the coilpack loom/harness that is at fault ( because a few of the plugs dont feel like they click into the tops of the coilpacks ) , as a temporary fix I cable tied all the coilpack connectors to the top of the coilpacks, so I am pretty sure its not a loose connector there.

I need the following

a) borrow a known working good set of RB25DET NEO coilpacks, payment in beer/cooked goodies

b) find somewhere that I can get a good deal on some Splitfire coilpacks delivered to WA by Thursday at the latest.

c) Borrow/Buy a known good coilpack harness/loom , so I can eliminate the loom as being a problem.

Guys and gals , I am seriously in the sh1t here cause I need the car running reliably preferably before the weekend as we were supposed to be going on a trip down South , could it possibly be worse timing?

I can be contacted via mobile on 041-991-6324

Import Monster Mentor

Import Monster

Posted
Posted

Sounds really similar to a problem my mate's s2 had - fixed by cleaning the AFM out with contact cleaner.

ok , to cut a long story short , after a recent and very basic service , our s2 Stagea has started playing up. Initially after the service it was working just fine, running smooth as anything, After a few days it started to misfire, I was not driving the car at the time but basically it was reported that the car was juddering, this only happened about 1.5 days after the service.

The only things done on the service was plugs , oil , oil filter , so pretty basic, something I have done many times before. After my partner Loretta started complaining of the car playing up I took the coil packs out , sprayed electrical contact cleaner on everything , re assembled and checked.

The car definately feels its running on 5 cyl. I am either thinking its the coilpack loom/harness that is at fault ( because a few of the plugs dont feel like they click into the tops of the coilpacks ) , as a temporary fix I cable tied all the coilpack connectors to the top of the coilpacks, so I am pretty sure its not a loose connector there.

I need the following

a) borrow a known working good set of RB25DET NEO coilpacks, payment in beer/cooked goodies

b) find somewhere that I can get a good deal on some Splitfire coilpacks delivered to WA by Thursday at the latest.

c) Borrow/Buy a known good coilpack harness/loom , so I can eliminate the loom as being a problem.

Guys and gals , I am seriously in the sh1t here cause I need the car running reliably preferably before the weekend as we were supposed to be going on a trip down South , could it possibly be worse timing?

I can be contacted via mobile on 041-991-6324

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I dont think thats it hey, cause last night I got home and took the car for a boot around the block and could not fault it, so just to be sure I took the coilpacks out ( didnt touch afm at all ) , had a look and re-assembled, and the car actually got WORSE.

So in my mind I disturbed 1 part ( coilpacks and coilpack harness) and the problem got worse, this would indicate its probably a failing coilpack.

do you agree?

Sounds really similar to a problem my mate's s2 had - fixed by cleaning the AFM out with contact cleaner.
Import Monster Mentor

Import Monster

Posted
Posted

exactly the same scenario here. Some times it would drive perfectly and if it started to run rough, giving it a bootful of throttle would fix it once it got over about 4000rpm. Thought it was coilpacks, replaced them and the car ran better when it was running but gradually got worse and worse. Put the AFM from my Stag in it and it ran perfectly.

I dont think thats it hey, cause last night I got home and took the car for a boot around the block and could not fault it, so just to be sure I took the coilpacks out ( didnt touch afm at all ) , had a look and re-assembled, and the car actually got WORSE.

So in my mind I disturbed 1 part ( coilpacks and coilpack harness) and the problem got worse, this would indicate its probably a failing coilpack.

do you agree?

Appealing Proficient

Appealing

Posted
Posted

Hey Shaun, I do have a working set spare.

I am putting a new set in mine when the engine is completed this coming week. Sorry don't have a harness. But do have lots of other bits. Did you check the plugs?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...