Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20e

Art1340

By Art1340,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Art1340 Newbie

Art1340

Posted
Posted

Hi you guys in Australia

I live in the UK and own an R33 with the boring RB20E engine and I want to turbo it (I know all the die hards will say junk it and buy an RB25DET) but I still want to do it - but here in the UK no one has info on the RB20ET which I believe you guys got as standard in the A31 Cefiro and one of the Holdens.

Right anyone got an RB20ET ???

I need an exhaust manifold ???

the part number would help then I might be able to order one from Japan

Even better has anyone got a manifold !!!!

any help much appreciated

Art

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/
Share on other sites
Art1340 Newbie

Art1340

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for that info - thats exactly what I want to do

So - 1st problem where can I get a turbo exhaust manifold for the RB20E to convert it to RB20ET

I am able to source all the other bits except that !!!

help anyone

Art

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5320117
Share on other sites
StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

Hey mate, just to clarify, the rb20e never came in the commodore that was delivered in aus, only the ones sold in new Zealand... Not sure about the ceffy though, pretty sure they are in those as you say.

No idea where you'd find an exhaust manifold, are there any jap wreckers near where you are located? They should be able to source one, failing that you could try faithful old eBay, last resort is a custom made one.

But honestly man, I'm gonna join the crew and suggest a better engine. You are way better off doing an rb25det conversion for so many reasons. 1) the rb20e can't be that strong in NA form, so I doubt you'll be able to push it far in terms of power, and 2) you won't have much to Show for your money afterwards anyway, a dead stock 25det is probably gonna have more power that you could extract from the 20e...

But that thread that Martin suggested has a heap of info, well worth the read...

Good luck brother!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5320485
Share on other sites
ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
Posted

the only reason im saying buy an rb20det is because the rb20e are much rarer, therefore harder to get the bits to convert it, sure you can get a custom manifold, but what about the ecu and engine specific parts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5320615
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Also going to say don't bother with the 20E, it will seriously be a torque-less shitter, even at low power.

But if you're really set on it, would not a standard RB20/25DET manifold fit? Never seen an RB20E so I don't know what they look like, but I would have though they are the same engine externally?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5320696
Share on other sites
Art1340 Newbie

Art1340

Posted
  • Author
Posted
30et manifold will fit it.

Thanks guys for all the comments

I knew everyone would suggest change the engine and yes that is favourable - but we all like to do our own thing and I have not seen any RB20ET's in the UK it would be different !!!!! isn't that what its all about !!!!! and if I can get second hand OEM parts its not going to be megga expensive.

My car is a totally standard white 1995 R33 GTS with only 91000 Kms - its engine is mint - I would like to keep it !!!!!!

Just to clarify some comments - the RB20E head is different to any of the others (except RB30E) its the flange layout it is slightly different - a good engineering shop could possibly modify an RB25DET tubular manifold for me but was looking for an OEM part !!!!

Turbo's and other stuff is easy to get - ecu can be modified or piggy backed no problem.

I am going to keep looking - tried all the UK breakers and of course eBay - no one has parts for the RB20ET over here thats why I am trying Australia and also like someone said New Zealand because you guys got the imports we didn't !!!!!

Must be some A31 Cefiro's or very early R31's (I think they got RB20ET's) in breakers somewhere ???? just want a manifold !!!!!!

Skyline's Rule

thanks again

Art

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5321142
Share on other sites
bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted

I would suggest having a look on the R31 owners club forum, since I know that a number of HR31 Passages came over here with the RB20E motor variants.

It's all well and good to do something for the sake of being different, but if you're going to the expense of sourcing heavy parts from Aus / NZ you may as well go for a twin cam motor anyway! lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5321171
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
Bradbrook Performance WorX Newbie

Bradbrook Performance WorX

Posted
Posted

Hi mate

I have a Rb30et complete motor with ecu, wiring loom the lot.

Also has a high flow turbo that has probably had about 10 hours running,

I have the head off it at the moment as i was going to put a steel head gasket on it but havent had the time as yet to really do anything with it.

I got the engine out of a r31 import.

It is a standard turbo engine with the knock sensors etc i am pretty sure they all came out with that anyways but thought i would add that comment.

If your interested let me know.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5499911
Share on other sites
Ad's Mentor

Ad's

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt bother to be honest. I had a RB20DE in my coupe yes been twin cam i know its different but it was really slow! Been in a RB30ET and they pick up very quick, but putting a turbo on the side of a 2ltr single cam i seriously reckon a stock RB30E would be quicker. It's not going to be much better than what you have now imo.

I would seriously go down the RB25DET path like i am i havent had mine on the road yet but i have taken it for a quick run, i can tell its going to be some fun. The 25 would have alot more power and probally alot cheaper than turboing the 20E aswell as finding parts too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5500018
Share on other sites
Bradbrook Performance WorX Newbie

Bradbrook Performance WorX

Posted
Posted

you would be surprised i had a rb20et in a gq patrol which are pretty heavy and it loved it, compared to a standard rb30et it went about the same, running standard boost in both engines. they do go alright, and finding parts for them would be easy, apart from the head it self the rest is pretty much the same as a rb30.

ive got a full motor with everything standard, and they really are not that hard to get a hold of things.

your right a rb25 would be a better option but i guess each to there own when it comes to what they want in the vehicle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5500974
Share on other sites
Bradbrook Performance WorX Newbie

Bradbrook Performance WorX

Posted
Posted

haha yeah it is a bit like that, but still for the ole rb20et was running 12psi and it did all right, much better than running the standard rb30 carburettor engine i can give you that. I am now running the rb30et with aftermarket inlet for low down torque, camshaft, garrett 35/40 top mount, aftermarket wolf ecu, injectors etc etc runs 240kw with 36" tyres that alot more fun i must admit.

I run a workshop in victoria and do a lot of 4wd conversions and the odd skyline 2litre to 2.6litre conversions.

Doing one at the moment on a GQ Patrol with the 6.2litre L98 V8 out of the new ve commodore should be easily 320kw at the tyres N/A.

post-77667-1287370746_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5502552
Share on other sites
toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted
Must be some A31 Cefiro's or very early R31's (I think they got RB20ET's) in breakers somewhere ???? just want a manifold !!!!!!

Skyline's Rule

thanks again

Art

A31 never came out rb20et , buy a rb30et manifold off ebay , if it doesnt fit i'm sure you can customise it :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326876-rb20e/#findComment-5502676
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...