Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 weeks later...

Well It has been a while since I have done anything to the car... however due to some unforeseen circumstances my rims have buckled from the pure awesomeness of being ROTA's lol. hahaha

So Now I have been hunting for the last 3 days on what rims I should get and I have settled on

18x10.5x+15 f1 silver Enkei Rpf1 I can get them to my door for 1530... however my only concern is the stretch of a 265 onto the 10.5" rim.

I can get a 18x9.5+15 for about 100 dollars less which I know the tyre will fit and look a little more chunky on but im still not 100% on that factor.

I had 265s stretched on 10" wide but next 10.5" rims so any ideas or advice boys?

just an example of 10.5" with 265s. I know I will have to get my guards rolled as Colin kindly discussed with me last night.

gtr7.jpg

gtr14.jpg

gtr4.jpg

gtr12.jpg

gtr18.jpg

who are you getting the rims through?

might be interested in a set

Hey mate, I have scratch the plan so far lol.

it was $1578.00 after conversion and even after that It was about $250.00 in govt fees blood bastards so pushed it all up to $1850.00

So far my current price for them through a importer is $1650.00 to my door that's it so seems to be the best out of the lot.

It is through street to track just google them and youll get the address.

  • 3 weeks later...

18x10.5x+15 f1 silver Enkei Rpf1

Got them for 1650 to my door from the US and it only took 1 week delivery which I am very impressed with :D

264448_140259842716506_100001974734909_279846_2304536_n.jpg

Now I am 3 months away from the lip.

I found some more pics of the lip I am getting on a MNP 33 GTR.

5094312553_0f46f5b097_b.jpg

5094916274_922dd4d526_b.jpg

5094323051_fe9b3fe802_b.jpg

I am also currently looking at spending some coinage hahaha I am currently going through a job change and my old job (BCC) are paying me out 100 hours of holiday pay so yay for me :D hahahaha

Have been looking at coilovers I have requested a price on a set of Tein Super Streets but unsure what they are like. I have found a second hand set of HR Teins but again unsure what they would be like driving wise as I dont want to much more of piggy to drive every day of the week lol.

I have also been thinking of what I should do to push my GTR to 500hp, I am pretty sure I am not that far off... custom front pipe Twin 3" to single 4" collector fake cat in place for it to be plausible to coppers and allow more flow... Z32 AFMs or debating selling the power fc and just going the wolf depending on what price I can get it for, then I should be nicely able to push it to 500hp :D I am still requiring a new clutch aswell the old 1 is still holding up from low rpm to the high rpm apart from 4th gear.

Don't get super streets, I have them on my mate's supra and my r32 gtr and on both cars they are way to soft and the tires will hit the guards unless it's jack up heaps. I have Tein Mono Flex on my R33 GTR and my other mate has them on his R34 GTR and they are absolutely perfect 8kg/mm on front and 7kg/mm rear, they are perfect balance between street and track I highly recommended them.

Here are my Mono flex they have dual height adjustment these are off my Street/Track R33 GTR Fr:8kg/mm R:7kg/mm

n679318484_597016_7844.jpg

And these are the super street which have minimal height adjustment these are off my Drag R32 GTR Fr:5kg/mm R:4kg/mm

19065_271404138484_679318484_3336525_5850330_n.jpg

looks good. who did you get the enkei's through?

want some for my vw

I got them through street to track.com

Don't get super streets, I have them on my mate's supra and my r32 gtr and on both cars they are way to soft and the tires will hit the guards unless it's jack up heaps. I have Tein Mono Flex on my R33 GTR and my other mate has them on his R34 GTR and they are absolutely perfect 8kg/mm on front and 7kg/mm rear, they are perfect balance between street and track I highly recommended them.

Here are my Mono flex they have dual height adjustment these are off my Street/Track R33 GTR Fr:8kg/mm R:7kg/mm

n679318484_597016_7844.jpg

And these are the super street which have minimal height adjustment these are off my Drag R32 GTR Fr:5kg/mm R:4kg/mm

19065_271404138484_679318484_3336525_5850330_n.jpg

Ahhh really? very nice. Yeah I have been weighting up all the costs etc... a few people have been suggesting the SS but few others suggesting other brands. aswell.

Have you heard or used the Tein HRs?

Hey mate. Give my tuner a call. He is a Tein dealer and nows how to set them up very well. Number is 54993932 and is located in Morayfield. I also operate an auto elec shop next door to him if you ever need anything.

Will do!

Cheers mate.

So after getting sick of my hicas playing up I decided lock the bitch out! .

Following the how to guide still took me forever to get it right hahahahaha it was a bitch getting the old 1 out.

I also got a better pic showing the offset of the new rims.

264349_141406232601867_100001974734909_286973_4862525_n.jpg

260488_142128185863005_100001974734909_288850_7801676_n.jpg

If it were practical I would lower my GTR this low hahah

268215_142130512529439_100001974734909_288853_56867_n.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...