Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

i was just doing some searching on whether i could replace my stock GTR afms for some green label RB20/25 ones.

i have read some posts saying that it is possible, but i was wondering whether there is anyone that is using 2 green label AFM's on their GTR and what issues they experienced with it. for me it seems to be the much cheaper option than forking out for a pair of z32's. i am not chasing huge power.

my mods are

2860-5's

Nistune ECU

660cc injectors

Walbro fuel pump

3in exhaust with a 3.5in muffler

3in highflow cat

rebuild engine with forged internals

recond head done while engine out for rebuild

stock r34 GTR intercooler

stock AFM's

i had it last dynoed and got 320rwkw @ 18psi

i know that the turbos have much more room for more power. but i would be limited to the stock intercooler and 3in exhaust

but i would like to just be able to bump the boost up to 20psi and see if i could get close to 350rwkw without maxing out my AFM's

so to me paying $400 for a second hand set of z32's and getting some piping and filters for the bigger AFM's is not worth the extra 30rwkw. so if i could pick up some green label AFM's for cheaper i would be much happier, and my wallet would be a little fuller.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326962-rb25-afms-on-a-gtr/
Share on other sites

It is doable, you will require a retune just as if you had installed Z32s or nismo AFMs.

Guaranteed it is covered more than enough on the forum, it would be almost the exact same deal as installing Z32s. You will need a new suction pipe to fit the 80mm AFMs as the stocks are 65mm and you will need the plugs for them also.

AFAIK you will also need to change your air filters.

Thats EVERYTHING you need to know.

Hey everyone,

i was just doing some searching on whether i could replace my stock GTR afms for some green label RB20/25 ones.

i have read some posts saying that it is possible, but i was wondering whether there is anyone that is using 2 green label AFM's on their GTR and what issues they experienced with it. for me it seems to be the much cheaper option than forking out for a pair of z32's. i am not chasing huge power.

my mods are

2860-5's

Nistune ECU

660cc injectors

Walbro fuel pump

3in exhaust with a 3.5in muffler

3in highflow cat

rebuild engine with forged internals

recond head done while engine out for rebuild

stock r34 GTR intercooler

stock AFM's

i had it last dynoed and got 320rwkw @ 18psi

i know that the turbos have much more room for more power. but i would be limited to the stock intercooler and 3in exhaust

but i would like to just be able to bump the boost up to 20psi and see if i could get close to 350rwkw without maxing out my AFM's

so to me paying $400 for a second hand set of z32's and getting some piping and filters for the bigger AFM's is not worth the extra 30rwkw. so if i could pick up some green label AFM's for cheaper i would be much happier, and my wallet would be a little fuller.

Cheers,

$400 for 30Kw is a very good deal, once you do all the basic stuff like ECU and Exhaust, getting a whack of power like that get's a whole lot more expensive then $400...

My 2c :D

Pluses I found for using 2 RB25 AFM's- they fit on the stock inlet piping (with a little stretching, and I needed to add an elbow to get the top one around the power steering res) and they plug straight into the standard plugs.

Pluses I found for using 2 RB25 AFM's- they fit on the stock inlet piping (with a little stretching, and I needed to add an elbow to get the top one around the power steering res) and they plug straight into the standard plugs.

Well there you go!

Although, they are the same size as a Z32 and have been said NOT to fit.

cheer's guys,

i am aware that i'll need to get a retune for the bigger AFM's, that's not an issue. i'll speak to my tuner and ask whether he is able to do it.

another tuner i spoke to about this told me he wouldnt do it, because he wont tune on second hand AFM's he only uses brand new z32's because he said that its very hard to get the tune right on GTR's because there are 2 AFM's and they could be reading differently?

all i am after is a little more scope so with a slight bit more boost i have some reading from the AFM's that isnt at full.

will post back once i get it done with the results

cheer's guys,

i am aware that i'll need to get a retune for the bigger AFM's, that's not an issue. i'll speak to my tuner and ask whether he is able to do it.

another tuner i spoke to about this told me he wouldnt do it, because he wont tune on second hand AFM's he only uses brand new z32's because he said that its very hard to get the tune right on GTR's because there are 2 AFM's and they could be reading differently?

all i am after is a little more scope so with a slight bit more boost i have some reading from the AFM's that isnt at full.

will post back once i get it done with the results

If thats the case, just get nismo or mines afm's, direct fit and same power handling as they are essentially std units recalibrated to near z32 specs. The smaller body of the nismo /mines items allow nicer low and mid tuning.

Well there you go!

Although, they are the same size as a Z32 and have been said NOT to fit.

And yes you need to change your air filter setup as the afm's (either ones) are physically bigger. The inlet pipes are quite stretchy, will stretch to accomadate 3'' piping. Keeping the same plug for the rb25's was the factor that decided it for me at the time. If I was going to keep running afm's (I now run motec) I would seriously consider the nismo option though expensive, they are brand new, have the required resolution for the sort of power you're after with a streetable twin turbo setup and fit without modification (apart from tuning of course).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...