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  • 2 weeks later...

I have fitted AP Racing discs and calipers to my stagea as the existing r34GTr ones struggled when I put 2860-5 turbos on .

Used a set for a skyline and everything fitted no problem . My hubs use 14mm bolts so everything was just bolt on except I had to grind off one small bit as it fouled the AP brackets

Before

03012007296-1.jpg

After

06012007297.jpg

Discs and calipers on

06012007299.jpg

Wheels on (18 inch) and yes I know there are only two wheel nuts on :)

06012007301-1.jpg

i know everybody is talking about front upgrades but ive got questions about the rear upgrades. i tried doing rear 34 brembos but they dont fit the mounting bolt holes. the spacing of the bolt holes are different. are the r33 brembos the same as r34 or is the spacing the same as stags??

i know everybody is talking about front upgrades but ive got questions about the rear upgrades. i tried doing rear 34 brembos but they dont fit the mounting bolt holes. the spacing of the bolt holes are different. are the r33 brembos the same as r34 or is the spacing the same as stags??

Pretty much all rear calipers have the same hole spacing.

I have 34GTR Gold brembos on the rear of my Stagea

IMG_0486.jpg

As you can see they do fit but you will need the larger 34GTR discs

Now the bigger caliper bolt holes do line up and they use the same size bolt as stageas the thread pitch is different - you need to use 34 GTR caliper bolts .

If you are trying to use the original stagea bolts they can give the impression of not fitting

Also because the 34GTR rear discs are much bigger you will need to either swop the dust cover for a 34GTR (or 33) one or cut the dust cover lip off. This can easily be done without removing the covers. This is much easier as nothing else needs to be removed ( hand brake assembly etc)

This is certainly true for series one cars If yours is a series 2 I cant say for sure as mine is an S1

Edited by RSVFOURUK

yes mines a ser 2 rs4s. the bolts arent a problem as i have the r34 bolts. i have the gtr discs as well. the problem is definately bolt spacing. when u put in 1 bolt the other hole is out by approx 10mm. i'll take a pic or two on the weekend.

Wheels on (18 inch) and yes I know there are only two wheel nuts on :(

... oh, and aren't the slots in the rotors meant to run the other way? I think you may have left on right, and right on left.

:(

... oh, and aren't the slots in the rotors meant to run the other way? I think you may have left on right, and right on left.

:(

Thanks for your concern and if the grooves were curved you would be right but with straight cut grooves on APs its the other way ( no I dont know why either)

There are lots of different AP disc designs : with these particular discs it is the direction of the vanes that determines the way they go round not the slots.

From the AP website (and off of the AP box :( )

discdir.gif

  • 2 weeks later...
Just brought a set of r33 gtst calipers and are wondering if stock s2 rs4 discs are going to fit or do i need r33 gtst discs

you will need gtst disks and you will either need some pipe with a 12mm inside diameter and 1mm wall thickness

or re-drill and tap the mounting holes to 14mm like the stock brakes are

you will need gtst disks and you will either need some pipe with a 12mm inside diameter and 1mm wall thickness

or re-drill and tap the mounting holes to 14mm like the stock brakes are

Please redrill/tap to suit the bigger bolt, using sleeves is very dodgy.

Just brought a set of r33 gtst calipers and are wondering if stock s2 rs4 discs are going to fit or do i need r33 gtst discs

I've got a good set of front R33 GTST S2 rotors for sale - $100 cheap. :P

i dont need a death trap on the road for my kids to drive in

i will definatley be retapping the holes got all the taps at work

will bolt straight on

use a coarse threaded screw and screw it into the restrictor in the bottom of the brake line hole (on the calliper)

then pull it out with something, vice, claw hammer, whatever

then your stock lines should bolt straight in (make sure you keep the 2 brass washers)

Ruby,

I fitted 32 caliper`s up no worries, retaped bolt hole`s to 14mm no bodgy Spacer

post-36964-1278394400_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1278385348_thumb.jpg[attachmen

t=293900:june_10_042.jpg]

I had braided line`s so no worries with Banjo,

I toke them off as i think Stock Setup was better & now with Brake duct`s.

Next is Braided line`s ,

I know many BAG stock setup but i think there as good as 4 POT`S,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

Chuckie,what size of tap did you use?and size of drill bit?your idea looks better than the pipe technique...more info on how to did you do it will be awesome...Thanks

Edited by southern_tango

It should be M14x1.25mm.

Rule of thumb for all tapping drill sizes is; Nominal bolt dia. minus thread pitch.

In this case 14mm minus 1.25mm.Tapping drill size; 12.75mm.

Obviously, use a drill press to ensure you get the holes square, with the caliper firmly clamped. Use a tapping compound or grease to lubricate the drill, not too fast, take your time.

When tapping, use a tapping compound or grease to lubricate the tap, you don't want it to bind or break. Don't be shy, use plenty, it wipes off at the end. Ensure you are using a Taper or Intermediate tap; a bottoming tap will be almost impossible to start. (or just buy a complete tap set; it comes with all three).

Take your time to ensure the tap is straight and square once you start a tap crooked, it can be difficult to straighten. For every full turn on the tap, back off 1/2 a turn to break the chip, when you wind it back, it will go tight, then the chip will break, then release. If you don't do this the thread can start to tear, and feel rough; you want a nice smooth finish. Use a proper tap wrench, not a shifting spanner; it will be much easier to ensure the tap is square.

I hope I haven't oversimplified this, not trying to treat you like an idiot, just wrote for novice use.

Good luck, Dale

Edited by Daleo
  • 3 weeks later...

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