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Rb20 Swapped S13 Will Not Run Right, Help!

singlecamcammed240
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singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

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I swapped a rb20det into my single cam 240sx, i had the wiring done professionally. the car would not run right when i got the wiring back, so it got sent back out to be checked over, and the place said everything was fine. they could not find any problems. now something else has to be the problem, i cant figure it out. the mods are hks2535 turbo, used sard 550cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, z32 afm and carl h. tuned ecu. i also have a random ecu from ebay that is supposed to be tuned for my setup, car runs the same with both ecu's so is cant be the tune. i was getting codes 23 and 45, i checked for leaky injectors they dont appear to leak when the key is on and the rail is pulled. code 23 went away after i did this check on the injectors. the car runs so horribly rich that in order to start the car i have to pull the fuel pump fuse and then install it when the motor starts to fire. in neutral the car will rev to about 4500-5000 rpm and then the car definatly had a fuel cut at 3000rpm when i took it for a short drive. its like it is in limp mode. its not the afm because it is a new reproduction one. the fuel pump relay and the other relay near it (close to the ecu on the harness), (i forgot the exact name of the relays) both stay on now, they did shut off untill the car ran for a while when we were trying to figure things out. they stay on and wont reset untill i unhook the battery, so now when i take the key out of the ignition the safc stays on the windows still go up and down and my dashboard indicator lights still stay lit. does anybody here know what the problems could be? or what to look for? thanks let me know

singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

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yes, i forgot to add i have a safc neo, but with -50 at high and low thottle across the map it does not even make a difference. my injectors are from jps trading on ebay, they were supposed to be high impedence just like stock rb20 injectors, could they maybe be low impedence and be screwing everything up? is there a way to check if they are low or high?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

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Just because you tried two different ecus that doesn't mean they are not the problem. You need one tunable ecu, no safc and get it tuned right on your car. You need a Link ( available directly from the factory http://www.linkecu.com/) or someone who can make a chip for your car tuned on the car.

The people who did the original wiring were not very "professional" if they gave it back to you not running properly.

Then you also need to find a top quality tuner.

racer98 Community Regular

racer98

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have you checked the simple things coilpacks, spark plugs, coil pack wiring, changed cas over.

I was just about to say that, problem is mate the guys in the states dont get swaps from japan any more due to the exchange rate, and the the sellers in Canada supply some really shitty 400,000+km motors stuff from Thailand, Mylasia and Singapore. So with regards to what you said about checking the basic items, not only they are missing when people get them in the states the motors are generally pieced together from so many different items and also loads of bad info on some of the other fourms state side since its all about the veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeetaccccccccccccccccckkkkkkk yo.

what I have seen is many times the water temp sensor as well as a bad injector can be the problem what is happening with the op. As well what you have mentioned the other areas as well.

why is it every time a honda owner sees a nissan its an automatic street race (ROLLS EYES)

singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

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i have not tried changing out the cas, i dont know of anyone aound here with extra rb parts let alone rb's. the spark plugs are new , i checked and it looks like i'm getting a strong hearty spark. everyone that comes over here tells me its the injectors, i think the pulse of fuel coming out of each injector is just too long, meaning way too much fuel, is there any way to check the impedence of the injectors?

singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

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Just because you tried two different ecus that doesn't mean they are not the problem. You need one tunable ecu, no safc and get it tuned right on your car. You need a Link ( available directly from the factory http://www.linkecu.com/) or someone who can make a chip for your car tuned on the car.

The people who did the original wiring were not very "professional" if they gave it back to you not running properly.

Then you also need to find a top quality tuner.

your link did not work for me when i clicked it. also the place that wired it is called http://wiringspecialties.com/ they seem pretty professional to me, i still think its my injectors, they think that also. on the US forums people speak highly of them for swap wiring.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

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Have you checked fuel pressure? If the regulator is stuffed, then you will be getting too much fuel delivered at all times.

The problem with the ignition lights sounds like an unrelated problem confined to the ignition switch.

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

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your link did not work for me when i clicked it. also the place that wired it is called http://wiringspecialties.com/ they seem pretty professional to me, i still think its my injectors, they think that also. on the US forums people speak highly of them for swap wiring.

To check the impedance simply unplug an injector and using a multimeter and selecting resistance, simply place each lead on one of the injector terminals. Low impedance injectors will have a resistance of around 2ohms and high impedance will be around 12-14ohms.

From what you have stated it sounds like a trip to the dyno is needed or a means to at least measure the AF ratios.

singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

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To check the impedance simply unplug an injector and using a multimeter and selecting resistance, simply place each lead on one of the injector terminals. Low impedance injectors will have a resistance of around 2ohms and high impedance will be around 12-14ohms.

From what you have stated it sounds like a trip to the dyno is needed or a means to at least measure the AF ratios.

okay i wil check the ohms as stated, and i have a wideband a/f guage it stays maxed out a 10

singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

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Have you checked fuel pressure? If the regulator is stuffed, then you will be getting too much fuel delivered at all times.

The problem with the ignition lights sounds like an unrelated problem confined to the ignition switch.

the car runs the same with the stock fuel pressure regulator and the aftermarket adj. fpr. i have which is set to 43psi.

singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

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okay i checked the resistance today of the injector harness plugs and the plugs on the injectors.

the harness side was reading 7.2 ohlms and the injectors were reading 14 ohlms. so does this mean i need a resistor box, or is this normal?

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted
okay i checked the resistance today of the injector harness plugs and the plugs on the injectors.

the harness side was reading 7.2 ohlms and the injectors were reading 14 ohlms. so does this mean i need a resistor box, or is this normal?

The injector resistance is "high Impedance" hence normal. You clearly have an overfuelling problem given the AF ratio is maxed out. I would suggest you need a tune. It sounds like perhaps the ECU map is for some smaller (standard) injectors.

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