Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a gtr which has been sitting for 5 years with no reg. The car was reg in ACT but defected just before it was gararged, the defect was for exh noise..

The car has front ap calipers, pods and 19" rims, turbos and lumpy idle due to cams, no boot interior + suspension is coilovers

Exhaust has been sorted now quiet.

what will pass and what wont at DICKson?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327369-act-rego/
Share on other sites

if it was defected and never inspected at dickson, the system will not let them issue rego without an inspection by dickson. taking it elsewhere is a waste of time and money.

If its nice and quiet and the engine bay looks stock take it over dickson and see what they find, they get one go at checking it for problems, once you have fixed/engineered what they find they cant then complain about other things, if they do try to pull that file an official complaint/dispute. The people at the shop front can tell you who you need to speak with to do that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327369-act-rego/#findComment-5327017
Share on other sites

Dickson is HELL !!! Took me three goes on my gts with a cert... third go was the engineers fault.

Anything mechanical on the car not put there by Nissan needs to be noted by an engineer in his report as not affecting performance. ie. ya turbs, brakes, coilovers, wheels and tyres on the car can't be changed once engineered cause the whole car has been "tested" in that spec same goes for anyparts once certed.

They are full of shit but i had to take my turbo timer off even, man that pissed me off.

Just wind the idle up a bit and the cams wont be a prob i was suprised they don't do any emisions tests but i think thats only for engine swaps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327369-act-rego/#findComment-5329951
Share on other sites

Oh my love for the Dickson Pits runs deep. I have become so acquainted with this Canberra funland.

I have had the most ridiculous things imaginable fail me on the pits, its almost a game. I am very careful, so they struggle to find things and make stuff up.

I have a few tricks i have learnt to make it a little easier, wont say here.

You Cert issues would have something to do with a certain JW?

Yes every engineering cert for particular engine mods must have a emission test. At the facility you are given a Cold and Warm run. The Cold Run is a useless bit of paper that shows your car way above limits as your oxygen sensors arent even working. I am yet to see a well modified car among friends that has failed a warm run.

Dickson is a fun place, You can pass one day with all the bells and whistles, nothing removed, and the next you can fail for a small tear in a seat like i have haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327369-act-rego/#findComment-5331978
Share on other sites

Yes every engineering cert for particular engine mods must have a emission test. At the facility you are given a Cold and Warm run. The Cold Run is a useless bit of paper that shows your car way above limits as your oxygen sensors arent even working. I am yet to see a well modified car among friends that has failed a warm run.

Dickson is a fun place, You can pass one day with all the bells and whistles, nothing removed, and the next you can fail for a small tear in a seat like i have haha

i failed the warm run and its to heat up your cat not your o2 sensors.

They failed a stock VS commodore i had because the brake lights werent reflective enough, not a oh you might want to do something about that a flat out fail. it was the only thing they wrote on the sheet as wrong too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327369-act-rego/#findComment-5332381
Share on other sites

the gf just bought a car from VIC with no rego. its been inspected at a authorised station and passed everything but still has to go to the pits for a vehicle identification check. the pricks want to compelte a full inspection on the car even though it was signed off yesterday haha

they wonder why people are just getting sneaky with what they do. they want full inspections for a colour change when all they need to do is say yes its not green, blue or whatever.

a mate went there and everthing was fine until the guy grabbed his pod filter that was in a half box and bolted down as required. they guy ripped it out so hard to i quote "check if its safe" and not only ripped the tabs of metal out from the bolts. he also split the the factory intake pipe near the turbo as its oviously not desgined to be bent and pulled like that. they then failed him on it. Lucky for us it was photographed and date stamped before it went in and after. a few nasty letters and to their management including threatening action of for damages to the car and possibly discussions they paid for the new pipe and passed the car for free.

best thing to do is have a parent or boss if possible to take the car in as they only pick on younger drivers as they think they are clueless with the mechanics of their vehicle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327369-act-rego/#findComment-5332783
Share on other sites

I have a gtr which has been sitting for 5 years with no reg. The car was reg in ACT but defected just before it was gararged, the defect was for exh noise..

The car has front ap calipers, pods and 19" rims, turbos and lumpy idle due to cams, no boot interior + suspension is coilovers

Exhaust has been sorted now quiet.

what will pass and what wont at DICKson?

I would suggest you give thema call and ask specifically to speak to one of the engineers about your issue - or even better make a time to go and discuss. especially that you want to clear the outstanding defect.

From my experience it is much better to look like you are workign to meet their rules/ processes rather than appear to dodgy things up and sneak it past them.

I don't think you will have issues with the turbos (are they low mount?), pods or cams. pods DO NOT reqiure an enclosure in the ACT last time I checked, but this is something you should verify while on the phone to an ENGINEER (that is what they are called)...

Suspension - coilovers are fine, provided they give sufficient clearance between the wheel centreline and the top of the guard lip + you have a minimum of 100mm at the lowest point under the car.

Wheels - you WILL need a cert and tyre placard (in the sill drivers B pillar) for anything like you have. I'd suggest you replace/ swap to avoid issues unless you have said cert. (depending on where you are I have 17's on mine that would pass, if you can't come up with any others).

let us know how your phoone call goes - oh AND GET THE NAME AND TITLE OF THE PERSON YOU SPEAK WITH!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327369-act-rego/#findComment-5332846
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...