Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

99% of time the problems arise when they havent been setup properly. if you take the time to read the guides on here and understand how it works then it gets pretty easy after a while to perfect.

most tuners simply cbf taking the car out on the road to set it up, when i had my car tuned ages the tuner just adjusted the set and didnt put any gain into it at all. picked up a good 400rpm spool re doing it myself

Im using Garrets -5.... So before i launch on the street turn the gain slightly lower then reset peak and see what it peaks at keep repeating till it is at desired peak? i wish i knoew more about this shit, im sik of this tuner!

I believe gain trades off opening the wastegate early or late. If you open early you don't get to full boost as quickly as possible, if you open too late you get a spike. So yeah, keep turning it down until you get a very small spike.

It seems like this is becoming a weekly thread where people are getting similar results with Profec B's, maybe we should rethink recommending these shitty things... I have had nothing but trouble with mine, two sets of turbos, shortest possible lines, actuators, tuners, bla-bla-bla...

It is true that boost should be checked on the road by the tuner after dynoing in the perfect world, as spikes often happen with different load on the street.

With my old turbo setup i tuned the boost curve much flatter (MFD graph) by lowering the gain slightly and the boost level that the wastegate begins to open at. Give it a go.

BTW, what turbos and actuators are you using?

seriously one of the simplest boost controllers..... generally they are fine. But they cant compensate for a badly set-up actuator system or incorrect pre-loads.... no controller can. The Blitz is by far the best but the Profec B comes in a close second.

the thing that confuses most is the gain (rate of ramp) and set boost or start boost (boost level it will start to control) often the gain is to high and it spikes or the start boost is too close from the final boost level.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...