Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally I think for standard or bolt on turbos I'd go for the brand name kits

these days with the OZ dollar so strong they arent that much more expensive and are guranteed to perform (easy to install too GO DIY!!!)

such as the HKS type S, or Trust V-SPL (both tube and fin) would do just fine

if you're planning to go for a bigger turbo then might as well go for Apexi GT spec or HKS type R but these are again a few hundred bucks over the cheaper V-SPL

check out nengun I just bought a V-SPL of them for 1200 delivered oh plus customs duty

Trust make a slightly larger version of the stock intercooler with the R-SPL core. It should do for 400hp worth of air and provide excellent response. Up from that perhaps the smallest core size for a front mount would do quite well in the same brand, for more circuit style fun.

Hey,

Here at; The Intercooler Guy (www.theintercoolerguy.com), we sell a wide range of bolt on aftermarket intercooler kits for the Nissan R32,R33,R34 skylines.

For your particular appilcation, the R33 GTS-T we have two options;

1. Hybrid kit

2. A.V.O Kit

Kits include:

1. Hybrid Super Monster bar and plate inercooler 800x300x76 (core size:600x300x76), kit includes; cromed super lightweight aluminum piping, super stainless steel clamps, silicon hoses (blue in colour), bolts, brackets and complete instruction guide.

PRICE (includes free shipping and free boost gauge anywhere in Australia)

$1100

2.A.V.O bar and plate intercooler kit OUR price $1450 including free shipping anywhere in Australia. please see www.avoturbo.com for full specs on this package.

The Hybrid package is the most popular package as is evident from these forums.

The Intercooler Guy

What would be the best size intercooler for a moderately tuned gts-t (RB25) running a 2530 or similar size turbo?  

And is it best to get a custom job or buy brand name, i.e. a HKS 'cooler kit?

Hey, Rev210, I know from previous threads that you are a great believer in the stock stuff - and I would tend towards that view. But given the price of the Trust stock mount intercooler being about the same as some FMICs, is it worth it? Also, nobody seems to talk about whether going for an FMIC creates extra lag compared to the stock mount. It would seem to me that any FMIC must create more lag, at least with a stock turbo, 'coz you are adding a big volume of air between compressor and intake that has to be compressed. Can you or anyone else shed any light on this aspect? I am looking at some mods and I am not convinced that an intercooler mod, at least an FMIC, is all it is cracked up to be! I know many will condemn me as a heretic to say such things, but there are an awful lot of followers of fashion here who don't know the engineering! Anyone shed any light?

Cheers.

not sure if everyone knows but mercury motorsport are selling 600 300 76 bar and plate coolers for 550 delivered!

looks like a good deal to me!

the only thing that looks a little suspect are the end tanks! doesnt look as though they would utilise the whole core! does any one know about this core? its just i am thinking of getting one!

 Also, nobody seems to talk about whether going for an FMIC creates extra lag compared to the stock mount.  It would seem to me that any FMIC must create more lag, at least with a stock turbo, 'coz you are adding a big volume of air between compressor and intake that has to be compressed.   Can you or anyone else shed any light on this aspect?  

I was really sceptical about this as well when researching, but when talking about seat of your pants feeling, I felt no noticable lag with my Trust kit 600x275x75.

All the guys I've read that have got the Hybrid 600x300x76 have mentioned the same thing about their kits. So I'm wondering whether you only start to feel lag in coolers over 600x300x76 on RB20/25's which is overkill for basic mods anyway.

Hey, Rev210, I know from previous threads that you are a great believer in the stock stuff - and I would tend towards that view.  But given the price of the Trust stock mount intercooler being about the same as some FMICs, is it worth it?  Also, nobody seems to talk about whether going for an FMIC creates extra lag compared to the stock mount.  It would seem to me that any FMIC must create more lag, at least with a stock turbo, 'coz you are adding a big volume of air between compressor and intake that has to be compressed.   Can you or anyone else shed any light on this aspect?  I am looking at some mods and I am not convinced that an intercooler mod, at least an FMIC, is all it is cracked up to be!  I know many will condemn me as a heretic to say such things, but there are an awful lot of followers of fashion here who don't know the engineering!  Anyone shed any light?

Cheers.

i have not noticed any increase in lag over the stock cooler (using a hybrid monster kit)... i am running the stock turbo @ 9psi...

I can go along with that, i have a HKS Type S cooler, and for the life of me there is no adverse affects of fitting hte larger cooler. If the extra couple of litres dampens response as some claim , then they are a better persn then me to detect it.

Without even touching my boost controller i gained 2 psi.

I seem to recall the S cooler is also about 600 x 300 x 70

Hi guys, here is an example of 4 intercooler setups and pipework we have actually used;

1. R33 GTST Standard Intercooler and standard R32 GTST pipework

150 rwkw = 27 lbs of air per min @ 13 litres of i/c & pipework

2. Supra Intercooler and matching 63mm pipework

180 rwkw = 30 lbs of air per min @ 15 litres of i/c & pipework

3. Standard GTR GTR and 63/75mm pipework

250 rwkw = 40 lbs of air per min @ 21 litres of i/c & pipework

4. Greddy 600 X 300 X 115 and 80 mm pipework

400 rwkw = 60 lbs of air per min @ 28 litres of i/c & pipework

If you look at the numbers you can see that the rate of air flow and the volume of I/C and pipework have a fixed relationship (27 = 13 , 30 = 15 , 40 = 21 , 60 = 28). This is not an accident, I designed it that way. The reason is I wanted to keep the throttle response as close what it was when the car had 150 rwkw, because I though that was very nice response.

The theory I followed was, the more power the engine produces the more air it needs. Thus if I keep the increase in the volume of air inside the inlet system in the same proportion as the power increase, then the throttle response should stay the same. This is based on the engine using the air in the same time frame.

So when people say they fitted a FMIC and have not noticed any less throttle response, my response would be, that is what I would expect. As long as they went from 150 rwkw to 180 rwkw. On the other hand, if there was no power increase then it would be simply physically impossible for there to be no decrease in throttle response.

The problem of poor throttle response arrises when you have a 220 rwkw engine with a 28 litre inlet system. This is something I see way to often.

Hope that adds to this interesting thread.

So when people say they fitted a FMIC and have not noticed any less throttle response, my response would be, that is what I would expect.  As long as they went from 150 rwkw to 180 rwkw.  On the other hand, if there was no power increase then it would be simply physically impossible for there to be no decrease in throttle response.

Ok, so people say they get power increases from a FMIC, are they getting 30 rwkw (using the above example) or are you saying that you need to be doing something else at the same time to avoid decreasing your throttle response?

Hi Abo Bob, Roy answered it

Without even touching my boost controller i gained 2 psi.

An extra 2 psi, lower inlet temperatures and a tune to match. I'd be pretty peed off if I didn't get around 30 rwkw increase.

Cson, funnily enough I had a GTR core up on my flow bench over the weekend.

What I measured was 22" water drop at 256CFM. That is about 0.785 Psi at 128Kw (roughly).

Pressure drop increases with the square of power and flow, so expect maybe 3.14 psi at 256Kw.

I really like Sydneykids approach to pipe volumes as well. The GTR core has rather large end tank volumes, but they are very nice looking end tanks from the aspect of even flow through the cooler tubes. Some of the aftermarket end tanks look rather primitive in comparison.

without sound like a lame a$$.. it's obviously not a simple yeh mate I'll take the 600x300x115 bar & plate, 1 in tube & fin grilled please with some tartar sauce & lemon thanks :confused: ....

Sydneykid's has just confused the daylights out of me... all I want is an intercooler solution. The figures of "40 lbs of air per min @ 21 litres of i/c & pipework" has lost me totally.

Im estimating around 300+kw @ all 4wheels on the gtr.. "if boost pressure comes into this formula, I would say ~1.2 -1.3bar" but then...

1. what size cooler?

2. brand? as each maker claims there name to fame eg: pressure drops, flows etc.

3. do i need new piping "?lbs pm @ ?litres of pipework"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...