Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im think a boost leak, but it feels like a pretty solid 5psi that im getting when i full throttle it, i have an aftermarket boost guage and the one in the dash still works, they both read about 5ish psi, if it was a leak somewhere wouldnt the boost slowly die down? instead of a stable 5psi?

the solonoid is bypassed fyi

any help as to why this is, is apreaciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/
Share on other sites

Check the intercooler pipes and clamps?

Failing that, try plug the solenoid and see if it goes to 7psi.

Other than that, I don't have any idea - been a while when I last messing around with GTST.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5331299
Share on other sites

most likely failed attempt at bypassing the solenoid

take a picture or tell us wht you have . do you have a hose going straight from the ic pipe to your wastegate

and car is apparently running fine/fast so its most likely not a boost leak

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5331334
Share on other sites

if you bypass the solenoid and run boost directly to the actuator you should get 5psi, they're a 5psi actuator afaik. replace the solenoid and wire it for a constant 7psi

that is incorrect

as per the nissan service manual

Use the air gun to blow compressed air approx A ~ B kgcm2 into the hose and make sure the swing valve controller rod operates.

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5331721
Share on other sites

if you bypass the solenoid and run boost directly to the actuator you should get 5psi, they're a 5psi actuator afaik. replace the solenoid and wire it for a constant 7psi

how do i wire the solonoid? the solonoid is still in there, but not sure what you mean on "wireing" it. im happy with a constant 7psi, but i dont want 5 psi, or even the 2 stage boost thats stock on the r33, constant 7psi for me thanks :ph34r:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5332708
Share on other sites

that is incorrect

as per the nissan service manual

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me

awsome info, but mines a manual :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5332711
Share on other sites

most likely failed attempt at bypassing the solenoid

take a picture or tell us wht you have . do you have a hose going straight from the ic pipe to your wastegate

and car is apparently running fine/fast so its most likely not a boost leak

ok ill try get one tonight if it isnt dark when i get home

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5332719
Share on other sites

Are you certain your gauge does not read in Bar/KPA, as .5 bar is roughly 7psi...this would explain why you think it's only running 5psi?

If that's not the case, it sounds like the solenoid bypass has been done incorrectly...perhaps try looking at diagrams of it on these forums and then retrying it. Black wire should be earthed (may have come loose) and the other end of it coming from the solenoid should be taped off properly, or you may end up with a permanent 5psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5332864
Share on other sites

something is wrong, even if you bypass it in correctly, the actuator spring is still 7psi

so no matter what you do, the minimum boost is 7psi before it opens

where are you measuring 5psi from?

what guage? where is the signal coming from? what is the guage displayed as

what mods after the compressor outlet?

ie: poor intercooler? leaking pipework? poor joiners? mangled vac lines? poor boost guage?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5332892
Share on other sites

Blocked/collapsed cat? when the cat collapsed in my wagon it was causing horrendous boost issues. Swapped out the boost controller, the solenoid, the wiring, put my RB20 actuator on, still couldn't get over 5-7psi.. dropped the exhaust to take it for a spin and found the cat had collapsed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5332934
Share on other sites

something is wrong, even if you bypass it in correctly, the actuator spring is still 7psi

so no matter what you do, the minimum boost is 7psi before it opens

where are you measuring 5psi from? on the front side of the intake manifold (not the rear/cabin side)

what guage? where is the signal coming from? what is the guage displayed as from both asftermarket guage (which is definatly psi not kpa)

what mods after the compressor outlet? stock dump, stock front pipe, 3.5 inch cat back, fmic, stock airbox

ie: poor intercooler? not sure, but if it was leaking wouldnt the psi fluctuate?

leaking pipework? same as above (i have checked all ring clamps are tight)

poor joiners? joiners seem in good nic aka no rips etc

mangled vac lines? which vac lines do you speak of?

poor boost guage? boost guage is a cheapo auto meter or something, looks el cheapo, but the dash boost guage reads similar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5333052
Share on other sites

its pretty hard to pick 5psi vs 7psi on the stock guage let alone on an el cheapo

i recommend if you really want to be sure is read the boost pressure at the compressor outlet

you may find its 7psi at the compressor outlet, but after the compressor snout it tails off

you might find poor intercooler which is causing a pressure drop across the core

something doesnt add up, the basics of the GTST give you a 7psi boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327780-max-5psi/#findComment-5333123
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...