Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hoping someone can help me.

my car is fouling a set of plugs about every 250-300km, and when i replace them they seem to look different?

cylinders 1 and 5 seem to look good, but the rest are completely black and fouled.

i had it tuned about 1500km ago, and it had a missfire, even when free revving. the tuner suggested cam angle sensor, but i have tried swapping it and still no good, then they suggested i get my entire ecu rewired?? however i dont think that would be the problem as i have talked to the person who tuned it when it was first rebuilt and he said the wiring in the ecu was done well.

the car is an r32 gtr, with fully built motor and trust t78 turbo, with 1000cc injectors, twin bosch 044s, ems 8860 ecu.

the car has splitfire coils, but i am guessing they are as old as the rebuild, which was 2004, are these known for failing. is there a way to check them to see if they are working fine??

any help would be hugely appreciated as i am looking at taking the car to a shop to find the problem, which i guess would be rather expensive. definately if i have to get my ecu rewired.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327891-set-of-plugs-with-every-tank/
Share on other sites

what plugs? what gaps? how rich is it running/ what afr is it at during cruise/idle

ngk r5671a-7 plugs at 8mm gap.

seems to be running fairly rich, unsure of afr's.

have a dyno sheet but thats all, only of a power run.

will try and post it.

i would pull the injectors and get them cleaned and flowed, secondly i would check the output pulse on the injector loom and ignition loom for each cylinder. I would suspect 1 and 5 are the issue if the other 4 are consistent.

i would pull the injectors and get them cleaned and flowed, secondly i would check the output pulse on the injector loom and ignition loom for each cylinder. I would suspect 1 and 5 are the issue if the other 4 are consistent.

apparently the bloke i bought it off had just done all the injectors? so he said.

and how would i check the output pulse??

do i need any special tools? i'm guessing a multimeter.

does it need to be on a dyno or just idling

cheers

Why are you running a "race" plug? It's probably fouling because it is way too "cold". Just use a "normal" NGK plug - you probably need to go a bit "colder" from standard in the heat range. Something like a BCPR7ES, and open the gap up a bit, say 1mm.

apparently the bloke i bought it off had just done all the injectors? so he said.

and how would i check the output pulse??

do i need any special tools? i'm guessing a multimeter.

does it need to be on a dyno or just idling

cheers

Changing the plugs as suggested would seem an easy thing to do. Did the guy who sold you the injectors have a receipt for the work? I bought a set of second hand injectors recently and had them flow tested - turned out to be cr*p.

Changing the plugs as suggested would seem an easy thing to do. Did the guy who sold you the injectors have a receipt for the work? I bought a set of second hand injectors recently and had them flow tested - turned out to be cr*p.

plugs were put in when i had it tuned, it did the exact same thing to the plugs that i used to run before which were just normal ngks as you said.

i didnt buy the injectors they were in the car when i bought it, they bloke i bought the car off said he had just had the injectors serviced.

no i didnt get a reciept for them.

  • 4 weeks later...

so i was changing a set of plugs the other day, and came across a couple of wires which were soldered onto the coilpack loom wiring, one of them was just before the igniter pack, and the other was at the plug on the end of the coilpack loom, attatched to the loop of wire which hangs out of it.

both of these wires were barely holding on, one was holding by a single strand.

i'm guessing these wires were for the ecu, as they surely weren't standard.

i got a new coilpack loom from nissan (one had snapped off at the plug and couldnt be resoldered on) and resolderd the two wires into the new loom.

after driving it didnt missfire and ran well, but still showed the signs of fouling the plugs again (stalled after overfuelling, which it still usually starts after some cranking but is the sign that the plugs need to be changed).

havent had a chance to check plugs yet.

could the cause of the overfuelling be because the car was tuned with the missfire,and now that it dosent missfire??

or should i still pull injectors and get flowed, how much does this cost?

is it worthwhile buying a new set??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...