Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what ever you budget for it, double it.

And then add a little bit more :D

Actually, those words were the best advice anyone gave me during my engine rebuild planning. It's easy for things to get away from you a little!

32's Rule that is all.....

But for information as to why they rule

I do agree that the 33 box is stronger, but synchro's still break from "quickshifts" and Rough abuse, not so much from power. My 20 box has had plenty of abuse, and so has ZCR's, and there are plenty of 200kw+ cars still going strong with 20 box's. I don't think a 20 box would last long with 250kw+ but below that its much of a muchness, and as for the diff, 32's may be better but are harder to find LSD centre's and parts, so that would be a negative

Yes the Geometry is very similar but R32 standard came with a much firmer and better shocks which have been known to last over 200,000kms, where as the 33's come with a soft shock and spring as thats what nissan thought people wanted comfort and the shocks only lasted around 50,000 hence why most standard 33's feel really rolly, which most people think their weight or size cause (but it doesn't help)

But the biggest handling gain is the Stiffness of the Chassis compared to the 33, with the 32 having the same stiffness as the 32 GT-R. Its why a 32 gts-t will do the same lap time (to a certain point) of similar power and suspension modded 32 GTR, where as the 33 GTS-T's are always behind the 32 let alone the 33 GTR

and even thoug you can find 34's for 12, I'd say more 14-15000, which is double the price of some 32's. Drop an educated 7k into a 32 and you would have a very fast and fun car

My 32 wieghs in at 1270, ZCR's 1320 with Sunroof

And the weight difference is more noticable in corner speed and braking than power

Another thing 32's tend to get 10-11ltrs per 100k, I know the 34's are better than 33's but I don't know the figure

And 100mm wheelbase difference is quite big, 33 to 32 is the same as 32 to New Mini

Oh and for model specific Bias

R31- Drift GTS

R32- Me :(

R33- Frink

R34- Randon I am

All of us will defend our model to death

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

There's a cheap R32 GTR which have been looked after - only driven about once a month in the past 12 months.

PM sent to OBY.

Hey I had a look. It wouldn't let me send you a PM though, something about not having enough posts. I'd love to come and have a look at it but 16k is out of my price range.

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

Your best bet is to buy from an enthusiast who has advertised in the For Sale section of these forums... At least three quarters of people who sell through SAU have looked after their car and are reluctantly selling it.

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

If you like the looks, your more of a driver than a poser :thumbsup: and find a good one you will never look back.

Saw these on all Classifieds today:

R32 GTS-T - $11,500, a few mods but this sentence might be a typo - "Boost can be wound up to 22 pounds giving 319kw of power."

http://www.allclassifieds.com.au/ac/ac0032?vcid=122819044

R34 GT-T - $15,500 - looks stock

http://www.allclassifieds.com.au/ac/ac0032?vcid=122819415

319kw from an rb20??? wow, i wouldn't believe that, unless he's adding the extra killerwatts the subs add to it :P

Edit - Subs don't make more power, the 2 massive amps make more power :)

Edited by Randon_I_Am

For a 32GTR?

From what I've seen, I would honestly suggest against a 32GTR. While there is no doubt in anyone's mind that they are an amazing car, as others have said above, you will pay for one. Then, even after you've bought a clean one with little to no issues, you won't stop spending money on it there. Be it something breaks and requires replacing, or you want more from it (don't kid yourself, you WILL), it will cost you.

Talk to Kat about 32GTR's and how much they cost :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...