Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

this problem has just appeared. the car used to work really well and ive made no mods to the car.

its an rb20det with vg30 turbo. boost switch running 10 - 13 psi. plugs are ngk copper bcpr7es-8.

this problem only occurs on boost. in the rev range before the turbo kicks in the car drives very smooth with no problems at all, no missfiring or anything.

now when the turbo starts kicking in, it feels like boost is sort of coming on then cuts out, coming on again, then cutting out, on, out, on, out... its stumbling and is very choppy. u can hear the turbo spooling but there is no smooth power delivery...

ive checked the spark plugs for clues. they have this white buildup on the tips. i have never seen this before on this car, its always been much darker. from what i know white buildup means running lean, but why would it start running lean all of the sudden? any ideas? could this be just a boost leak somewhere? anything else?

what could the problem be?

the plugs are new

timing is at 15

new splitfire coilpacks

new walbro pump

thanks heaps

Got a boost gauge? check to see if that's fluctuating when it comes onto boost.

Have you played around with any of the inlet piping recently? check vacume lines to see if any have come off

Got a boost gauge? check to see if that's fluctuating when it comes onto boost.

Have you played around with any of the inlet piping recently? check vacume lines to see if any have come off

unfortuantely i havnt got a boost gauge. ive checked all intake piping, hoses, silicon joiners, and clamps, everything is on nice and tight, but i will recheck it all again today. i really hope its just a leak somewhere...

If you are running copper plugs just run out and get a new set, always good to rule that out first.

Otherwise it's probably your coilpacks on the way out. Try gapping the plugs a bit closer, I think factory is 1.1mm but if your coilpacks are tired try going down to 0.8mm as a bit of a short term solution.

Try swapping your coilpacks with a friend. If your loom has the round shape plugs, they are the same as R32 skyline.

If you are running copper plugs just run out and get a new set, always good to rule that out first.

Otherwise it's probably your coilpacks on the way out. Try gapping the plugs a bit closer, I think factory is 1.1mm but if your coilpacks are tired try going down to 0.8mm as a bit of a short term solution.

Try swapping your coilpacks with a friend. If your loom has the round shape plugs, they are the same as R32 skyline.

these plugs are a brand new set. i have just bought them (bcpr7es-8), and have also tried band new bcpr6es-8. there is no difference. both these sets of plugs are gapped at 0.8mm.

its just my luck that none of friends have skylines so i cant test a new set. im running new splitfire coil packs atm so im hoping they arent dead already, but who knows...

i dont think its the ignitor because ive had problems with ignitors in the past, and this problem doesnt feel the same.

im just trying to see if i can find a solution before i go to a workshop and get it looked at

the plugs are new

timing is at 15

new splitfire coilpacks

new walbro pump

And he's checked the piping.

-----

Try gapping the plugs. Could be fuel pressure regulator (on the rail), air flow meter, throttle position sensor, or ECU related.

Make sure your wastegate isnt jammed or playing up....put mine back on once and it was trying to open 10PSI at idle....computer was having a very hard time working out what was going on.

unfortuantely i havnt got a boost gauge. ive checked all intake piping, hoses, silicon joiners, and clamps, everything is on nice and tight, but i will recheck it all again today. i really hope its just a leak somewhere...

Do you have access to an air compressor? If so, remove your AFM and plug the pipe (I used an empty glass jar), then pump the air in through a vacuum line. You'd be surprised where the leaks are. Don't need to go any higher than 1bar.

On my old RB20, it was leaking around where that rubber hose connects to the crossover pipe. A few vacuum lines I had plugged with bolts were leaking around the bolts. One of the pipes was leaking at a weld. A common place is the gasket between the upper and lower inlet manifold.

EDIT: Just saw above post. Hope they can sort it for you.

Edited by daisu
Do you have access to an air compressor? If so, remove your AFM and plug the pipe (I used an empty glass jar), then pump the air in through a vacuum line. You'd be surprised where the leaks are. Don't need to go any higher than 1bar.

On my old RB20, it was leaking around where that rubber hose connects to the crossover pipe. A few vacuum lines I had plugged with bolts were leaking around the bolts. One of the pipes was leaking at a weld. A common place is the gasket between the upper and lower inlet manifold.

EDIT: Just saw above post. Hope they can sort it for you.

i wanted to this but i couldnt access to a compressor. i can imagine finding alot of leaks all over the place.

cheers man

yep thats what its exactly like.

its at boostworx now, just dropped it off

With mine it was one of two things- a faulty ignitor, instead of trying for second hand ones I rang mircotech see comments below.

Ok so rang John at Mircotech 02 49661234 and they do NEW 4 and 6 channel ignitor packs with loom to replace the old ones. So you can replace yours on your RB20 SR20

So all you need to do it cut and re wire this into your harness and you have a new ignitor pack no second guessing anymore.

Second thing it might be is a loose wire on the ECU where the wires actually go into the plug that you put into the ECU. Have a good look at the wire going in to see if their is no damage to any of the wires.

These are the things I did to get my issue fixed which sounds like from your discription what I had.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...