Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Excessive EGT's, boost issues (lack thereof and inconsistant), engine feeling choked/won't rev out, and more I'd say.. that's all I can think of right now.

When I had one collapse in my 32, it felt choked up and the exhaust housing on the turbo would be glowing after a hard drive.

When I had one collapse on my Stagea, I discovered it when trying to troubleshoot inconsistant boost issues.. it was only running 5-7psi when it should be have been running 15psi.

They are my experiences.

yeah manily the car seems to not like reving

it was so bad in my mates EA it wouldnt rev past 3500rpm bashed out the cat and perfect ( he also baught it for 500bucks as the person who sold it dident know what was wrong with it)

Mmm mayb my cat is stuffed, it's fine on stock boost but on high boost 10 psi feels like is stugles to build boost or revs quickly! Would the exhaust sound diffent? On deceleration it sounds bubbly

anyone?

Stuffed cat

_bob_cat_taxidermy_01.jpg

Good cat

cat-facts.jpg

symptoms of a stuffed cat include:

Won't make eye contact.

Unresponsive to balls of string.

Less scratchy.

Loss of appetite.

Will not give chase to mice.

and many more...

If you suspect you have a stuffed cat you should immediately contact your nearest taxidermist to get a professional opinion.

Hope this has been helpful :P

symptoms of a stuffed cat include:

Won't make eye contact.

Unresponsive to balls of string.

Less scratchy.

Loss of appetite.

Will not give chase to mice.

and many more...

If you suspect you have a stuffed cat you should immediately contact your nearest taxidermist to get a professional opinion.

Hope this has been helpful :blink:

:P

the internals of my blower destroyed themselves back in the day in my commodore when i had a collapsed cat.. i suppose that doesn't help you

the thing that led me to look towards the cat was when it was dead cold and i started teh car i heard a ticking sound from the cat itself

an exhaust shop will tell you in about 10 seconds

Mine was low on boost big time. Was only seeing 8-9psi when it should have been 19psi.

The car felt really slow and didn't want to rev through the rev range.

Exhaust was quieter.

Really only took me a few minutes to figure out that the cat was blocked.

Bashed it out for a temporary fix and all was well.

Didn't hear no ticking noise though.

the internals of my blower destroyed themselves back in the day in my commodore when i had a collapsed cat.. i suppose that doesn't help you

the thing that led me to look towards the cat was when it was dead cold and i started teh car i heard a ticking sound from the cat itself

an exhaust shop will tell you in about 10 seconds

You sir, may have just enlightened me as to a cosistant tick sound on mostly cold starts. Please be patient, as you may or may not receive sweet candy in the mail soon.

the internals of my blower destroyed themselves back in the day in my commodore when i had a collapsed cat.. i suppose that doesn't help you

the thing that led me to look towards the cat was when it was dead cold and i started teh car i heard a ticking sound from the cat itself

an exhaust shop will tell you in about 10 seconds

ive also noticed a ticking sound coming from under the car when cold, will have to inspect the cat to see if its stuffed.

You sir, may have just enlightened me as to a cosistant tick sound on mostly cold starts. Please be patient, as you may or may not receive sweet candy in the mail soon.
ive also noticed a ticking sound coming from under the car when cold, will have to inspect the cat to see if its stuffed.

hopefully thats all it is and you both end up with some relatively cheap power back :/

when it happened to me i was fairly confused why i was missing power.. until i lost all boost.. luckily for me CAPA rebuilt my blower under warranty haha

Stuffed cat

Good cat

symptoms of a stuffed cat include:

Won't make eye contact.

Unresponsive to balls of string.

Less scratchy.

Loss of appetite.

Will not give chase to mice.

and many more...

If you suspect you have a stuffed cat you should immediately contact your nearest taxidermist to get a professional opinion.

Hope this has been helpful :D

hahahahahahahahaha i actually lol'd

Hope everyone is replacing their bashed out cats with some good replacements.

Save the fines, save your wallet, save your car's paint, save the world (a bit)

why paint?

i have a rattle under my car somewhere, only notice it when driving next to walls, and smell of petrol when idling still while hot for a little, could this be the cat? the boost seems to be high but im still hunting a reason why.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...