Jump to content
SAU Community

T67 On My Stagea?

smithers

By smithers,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Being a manual you have a few other options, pretty much all options for 34GTT will work, if it was auto then Nistune is really the only option that will work with the auto box.

Nistune boards are about $250 if you don't want the software aswell, carton of piss for an electronics dude to install it in your stock ECU then a few hundred bucks for a tune.

Stock injectors should be good for ~230rwkw, any more then you need to look for bigger, injectors for Neo engines aren't super common either. I'm about to commence looking into highflowing the stockers before my Nistune board arrives.. spent big on aftermarket injectors for the 32 twice and there's no way in hell I'm doing that again.

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Hmmk, that's a little more than the 1000cc Rochesters cost me and about half the price the 550cc Denso's did!

Everyone who I've seen put those Seimens injectors in their R34 had to make up spacers for the fuel rail..

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

You need 480+ injectors so those Siemens should be fine if you can make them fit. You will need Z32 afm and upgrade fuel pump if you haven't already. Newcastle's fame as a tuner free zone has spread to NZ so a trip to Sydney is indicated.

With 250 - 280 awkw car will be fast. Mine was pretty zippy with 245awkw but going the RB30 (plus bits as in my sig)route now. It is my daily driver and track car all in one (not recommended but i can't afford 2 cars).

If you haven't done anything to your suspension a massive rear sway bar will transform the whale like characteristics (plus a set of Bilsteins when you can).

smithers Enthusiast

smithers

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The last car i had was a modded evo 7 so i definately need to get the car lower and stiffer.

Newcastle is crap for workshops tho the only thing i need someone else to do is the tuning. Who is good in sydney?

Are z32 afm easy to find and do the plugs need to be modded or anything?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Z32 afm's can be bought new with plugs (have to wire in the new plug) from most traders on this site, I got mine from Justjap.

It will never be as low and stiff as your evo, I've got non-adj. Tein coilovers and they make a huge difference, on the hunt for some 33/34gtr swaybars as they're meant to be a cheap upgrade.

smithers Enthusiast

smithers

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Was thinking about getting the teins, only was worried they would be too stiff. Bought cheaper coilovers before and they were way too stiff even with the softest springs. Its the standard height now with crap tyres and the thing handles like the qE2.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
Was thinking about getting the teins, only was worried they would be too stiff. Bought cheaper coilovers before and they were way too stiff even with the softest springs. Its the standard height now with crap tyres and the thing handles like the qE2.

Tolerable stiffness is subjective really.. I come from driving my stiff-as-fk 32 so they are quite bareable compared to driving my 32 on our shitty roads.

Not sure on the exact model of my Teins, can attempt to find out if you're interested.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

BC's are nice for the money (coilovers) i have used the other "local" coil-over brands and they are all pretty average.

Seriously your stag with a T67 would be one of my "garage" cars (something id like in the garage), we have done quite a few stagea's and they come up great (even a few RWD only stags)

The auto 4wd versions with a 3000 stall converter and factory lock up is probably one of the most fun cars ive driven. They really wake up around the 280kw zone and are seriously fast.. A MV auto upgrade is also advised around the 280 and up mark and having installed a few can say their work is spot on, easy high 11 low 12 second wagon that is easy to live with as a daily is nothing to sneeze @.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Rear sway bar is Whiteline BNR11XX24mm (24mm solid not hollow like stocker) or equivalent. Or you could give your bar to a springmaker for a pattern and ask him to make one in 24mm solid bar. Get some adjustable castor rods and give it more castor for straight line stability at high speed. GTT or GTR brakes a good upgrade.

Sydney tuner Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering

Read the Stagea section - hundreds of pages of good info

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted
BC's are nice for the money (coilovers) i have used the other "local" coil-over brands and they are all pretty average.

Seriously your stag with a T67 would be one of my "garage" cars (something id like in the garage), we have done quite a few stagea's and they come up great (even a few RWD only stags)

The auto 4wd versions with a 3000 stall converter and factory lock up is probably one of the most fun cars ive driven. They really wake up around the 280kw zone and are seriously fast.. A MV auto upgrade is also advised around the 280 and up mark and having installed a few can say their work is spot on, easy high 11 low 12 second wagon that is easy to live with as a daily is nothing to sneeze @.

I'm running BC's, very nice for the price with good spring rates. Everybody has different taste in dampening so adjustables are easiest to tune.

I also have a 3000 stall fitted, it is the perfect setup for the street letting the turbo spool almost instantly. Performance of a GTR with wagon practicality = win. :(

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)
The Stagea forum has all the info you need.

I went the BC's so yes.

And yes GTR brakes fit as long as you run the GTR callipers and disks.

Need to redrill/tap the nuts for 14mm bolts though, please don't do what all the other geese are doing and sleeve the 12mm bolts :(

34GTT brakes will bolt straight up as they are already to suit 14mm bolts, you get a 310mm rotor then instead of 296mm with the GTR setup.

Edited by bubba
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
What about fitting brembos?

Depends what they're off...

Basically, R32/R33/s1 Stagea are 12mm bolts..

R34 and s2 Stagea are 14mm bolts..

Mounting dimensions are the same for all hubs, the difference being in the length of the legs on the caliper, this changes to suit different sized rotors.

I think Brembos off GTR's run an adapter bracket but I could be wrong.

Anyway, this talk is really suited to either the Stagea area or the Suspension/Braking area :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...