Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I took my RB20 gearbox out on the weekend as I am going to put my RB25 gearbox in. I need to get the tailshaft done and Ive heard that all you need to do is get the RB25 yolk put onto the R32 tailshaft and get it balanced.. I have called up about this and the man on the phone told me that I shouldnt do this and that Im better off getting an aftermarket one for $300.00.... Now I dont know if this is right.. I read on here that QUOTE -

"All that is required is to cut the old RB20det yoke off the R32 rb20det tail shaft and weld the rb25det yoke on to it.

Thge rb25det box sits something like 10mm back than the rb20det box. When you remove and clean up the old weld etc from the rb20det yoke thats the 10mm or so required. So stress less drop it off at the local Adelaide tail shaft services and simply have them swap the yokes + balance for $90."

I am thinking he might be trying to take advantage because I am a female. But then again I may be wrong..

Could someone please give me some advice..

I live in East Brisbane area.. Does anyone know of a place that can do the tailshaft for me? I dont mind a bit of a drive, just as long as im not going to get ripped off or taken advantage of. Im still learning so any advice would be REALLY appreciated.

Thanks

Georgie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328539-r32-tailshaft-with-rb25-yolk/
Share on other sites

While my big custom shaft was getting built, I was able to get away with bolting the front half of the 33 shaft to the rear half of the 32 shaft.. would need a good balance if you were going to use this as a permanent solution..

Do not get a custom shaft for $300. Done many conversions and only ever get the Z32 yoke put on. The gearbox is actually more like 3mm different so it make no difference to the length really.

If you put a one piece shaft in there, you'll regret it forever

personal preference i guess, i like mine in there fine.

no, not personal preference, just experience.

Not that there is really anything wrong with a single piece if it is made right, but when made for street applications, anything over 6000rpm and a 3inch tube shaft 2.5-3mm thick and 1.5m long goes critical. This means that if you put enough torque through it, you'll tie it in a knot. You won't do that even to the factory 2 piece one with the same torque and revs.

2 piece tailshafts are stronger and the load is displaced better over two shorter pieces of tube

Sweet,

Thanks for the advice guys its really appreciated!

Well I will call up tomorrow.. I went into a few places for a few other parts today and there were some really nice people out there willing to help but went to one place and he was an absolute jerk and because I brought my friend along (who's a guy) he started talking to him about the parts i was after! Even though I was asking the questions! I was so peeved off and he was extremely unhelpful.. frustrating but yeah will get there :rofl2:

I don't mind paying the money as long as they're not trying to rip me off etc.

Thanks again for the help :D And any information is great :)

$300 is cheap...

My custom 2-piece with new yoke, new centre bearing, heavy duty servicable uni's and 3" tubing cost me $700!

I did tell him I wanted something that would handle 800Nm though and I have been assured this will!

$300 is cheap...

My custom 2-piece with new yoke, new centre bearing, heavy duty servicable uni's and 3" tubing cost me $700!

I did tell him I wanted something that would handle 800Nm though and I have been assured this will!

sounds like a Hardy-Spicer?

how long ago did you get that built bubba? i am in need of doing this and everyone down here in bunbury is a yokel

Umm, probably been 2 years or so since I put the 25 box in. The guys at Final Drive are good to deal with, know what they're talking about and not arrogant c0ckheads like VEEM :(

  • 4 weeks later...

Awesome just the thread I was lookin for

Search really is your friend

Im doing the r33 gearbox conversion as well

So your saying if i read correctly keep the drive shaft the same length as the rb20 one just fit the rb25 yoke to it ?

and then get balanced?

thanks for that

Awesome just the thread I was lookin for

Search really is your friend

Im doing the r33 gearbox conversion as well

So your saying if i read correctly keep the drive shaft the same length as the rb20 one just fit the rb25 yoke to it ?

and then get balanced?

thanks for that

RB25 box is longer.. if you use the front half (from centre bearing forwards) of a 33gtst shaft and the rear half of a 32gtst, that's the length that it needs to be.

RB25 box is longer.. if you use the front half (from centre bearing forwards) of a 33gtst shaft and the rear half of a 32gtst, that's the length that it needs to be.

It's only about 3mm....which is kinda splitting hairs a little.

Yes just change the yoke over to VG30 300ZX (aus delivered so readily available at all driveline stores) no change in length is required.

Will they bolt together at the centre bearing ??

Yes, that's what I did while my custom shaft was being made.

It's only about 3mm....which is kinda splitting hairs a little.

Yes just change the yoke over to VG30 300ZX (aus delivered so readily available at all driveline stores) no change in length is required.

True but my point was you don't REALLY need to get anything welded, bolt the two halves together and get it balanced and away you go.

If, however, you are going for BIG power, then it would pay to get a decent shaft built.

Yes, that's what I did while my custom shaft was being made.

True but my point was you don't REALLY need to get anything welded, bolt the two halves together and get it balanced and away you go.

If, however, you are going for BIG power, then it would pay to get a decent shaft built.

Agreed, it is cheaper if you can get the RB25 shaft with your gearbox or find one cheap enough to steal the front section.

  • 3 weeks later...

Im picking up my tailshaft today. Its a R32 GTSt shaft with a RB25 yoke on the front of it. Came to $330 (including brand new yoke). Just had to take a measurement for the length and give it to the tailshaft place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...