Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I've done some reading on here and found a post or two by a chap called kyle but I'm a little lost here - I originally thought the pipe that ran round the back of the rb25det engine was the water supply but reading on it seems that the water return pipe.

Can anyone tell me where the water supply pipe comes from to the turbo please?

Also The oil supply/return pipes if thats possible? I'm guessing they're the same as the ones in the manual - however I've got an issue in that I'm fitting top mount turbo (gt3076) so I'm concerned that I'm going to have to make my own lines and tbh I've no idea how to go about that either.

any advice and pictures with big 'this one you sockpuppet' you guys could supply would be brilliant thankyou :down:

ant

  • Like 1

The thing is, you can source 2 water lines from anywhere and hook them up, the system will continue to flow, so not a big deal. I t-pieced off something around the intake plenum, can't remember exactly, possibly one of the lines that run through it to warm it up and the other just went back into the correct spot in the block.

oil feed/return are simple, feed is the small one, half way up the block, return is the bigger one at the bottom.

Now, for this turbo, I have been told you cannot use stock oil/water lines as they dont flow at the rate this turbo needs + if your going highmount there is no way you can use them to fit with it....

you are going to need speedflow fittings.

http://www.speedflow.com.au/

look up if there is a pirtek is near you, they will be able to source everything you need. http://www.pirtek.com.au/

gl with it.

Adam

thanks guys

@wilyawn - thanks for the manual shots - I'll take a look at mine - so the feed is coming from the bottom and the return goes to the top do I have that right?

@wytsky - I really dont want to try and tap into any plumbing - I'd rather use the spots on the block if possible. There is indeed a pirtek near me - I'm taking it that I would be able to phone them up and see if they can come out and have a look at the car?

@aleks - thanks for the pics - that seems pretty hefty there altho I'm still not 100% sure which are which mainly because I'm not sure which holes the pipes are going to on the turbo ?

Looking at the turbo from the exhaust housing side;

at 12 o'clock is the oil feed (as shown in the third picture)

at 3 o'clock is the water feed (can't be seen)

at 6 ... oil return (notice its alot bigger line/fitting, goes to bottom of the block

at 9 water feed

aha thanks aleks

wow thanks mate - I just got chance to check these pics outside of work on a monitor that doesn't seem to blow out the image lol! I can see the red txt with which pipe is which! Thats a really great help thankyou!

so basically the water is travelling upward and the oil is travelling downward do I have that right?

really really had best go bed now heh!

one of the guys on the uk forum skylineowners.com recommended earls here in the uk. It worked out at £70 for the water lines with AN fitting and adaptors which I really like the sound of vs using the original banjo bolts stuff. I think thats the route to go for me as I like the idea of easy screw/unscrew fittings for the lines. not sure if they can do oil lines too altho I would think I should use the original ones is that right?

  • 2 weeks later...
I ran the water return to the heater lines, which i chopped up/got rid off.

Does anyone know where you can source the fitting on the back of the head in the middle pic? Whats it called? (for the oil drain)

Cheers

do u need to cover the braided line to protect it from heat?

the blue hose u get from the turbo kits for oil drain, does that also need to be protected from the manifold?

Does anyone know where you can source the fitting on the back of the head in the middle pic? Whats it called? (for the oil drain)

Cheers

that can be purchased from tweakit!

For my water line I used the water feed just under the stock one on the turbo side of the engine. It had a plug in it so I removed it and my lines tapped straight in. Will this be okay?

not sure if rb25 blocks are same as rb30 but dont get ur water feed and return both from the exh side of the block cause its not a circulating flow thru the block and u will kill the turbo.. seen this happen twice with gt3582 turbos, not cool! hah

  • 4 weeks later...

hi guys I thought I'd update this thread and show my progress... I've got my oil feed & water lines sorted now heres a few pics below.

theres plenty of play and space in the lines so I can route them around the downpipe or under it whatever I need really...

p1030958.jpg

just interested in this one... I'm not sure whether I can tighten this fitting down because theres a restrictor in the turbo. You can see the gap between fitting and turbo. Should I fit a washer.

p1030967.jpg

this is my water return line - its coming off the turbo, around the back of the engine but from there I'm a little stuck... any suggestions? The pipe with the green arrow on it I think is the water return line. When I had the front entry on this pipe was connected to the coolant bleed valve (that screw you undo a little after putting coolant in and bleeding the system). Anyhow I think this push fitting just goes into there but not sure?...

p1030966.jpg

oh one more thing... my connectors for the water lines have 2 washers... should I put one either side of the banjo bolt adaptor?

p1030960.jpg

now I just need to sort out the oil return line. I think the oil return fitting off the td05 turbo I have should fit this turbo and then I just need to make a pipe down to the oil return port on the block.

Edited by anthonymcgrath

yer put 1 washer either side of the banjo

the water return fitting is a steel line sticking out the back of the plenum, in standard form a rubber hose goes onto this then goes around the back of the head where it joins a steel line to the turbo

will adjust washers tomorrow thanks :D

thanks mate but I'm fitting a greddy plenum at same time so stock location is no good for me I think unless greddy plenum has take off point for water return line for my top mount turbo?

I've been reading the greddy plenum how to on here....

he blocked this line off or returned it to somewhere where water plumbs back in!

PlenumInstall%20035.JPG

I think the point where he's plumbed it back in is the same one I'm holding in my video on youtube?

my engine prior to plenum fitment on youtube

Edited by anthonymcgrath

hey anthony,

im at the same point as you with this..

3076r - highmount...

now issue is i have rb25det in my r32 so less room!

issues im having are...

oil feed runs down the middle two manifold runners.

DSC00638.jpg

DSC00636.jpg

oil drain has MINIMAL room to run down strut tower to block.

DSC00639.jpg

DSC00637.jpg

DSC00640.jpg

anyone know if it will be ok to run the oil feed down here with that heat proof tube stuff and the oil drain with that stuff too?

I will be using similar routing for the oil feed line and Im using the flame proof sleeve from mscn...

http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=495

it was recommended to me by another SAU member...

nice wrap job on the manifold btw..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...