Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my 25/30 is starting to be built this weekend. only part ive havnt yet got lined up is pistons. have read through so many pages on the forum and cant find a simply straight up answer. i need a decent comp ratio... obviously above 8.3 or thereabouts. will CP flat top pistons to suit RB30 give me a decent ratio. need a straight answer asap. what piston have ppl used to get decent comp ratio?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/
Share on other sites

CP

All compression ratios are based on zero deck height

1.2mm head gasket (7.13cc)

RB25 @ 62.5cc

RB26 @ 64.5cc

They assure me they have done alot of work to make sure the facts are correct.

p/n= CP-RB30/26-.20

Flat top with no valve pockets

8.2:1 COMPRESSION RATIO with RB25 head and bit less with RB26 head

21mm pin

1.280" compression height

Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize but can be custom ordered in any size.

p/n= CP-RB30/26-.20-9.0

6.0cc dome top,

9.0:1 COMPRESSION RATIO with RB25 head and bit less with RB26 head

21mm pin

1.280" compression height

Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize but can be custom ordered in any size.

*Care must be taken when using on RB26 with more than 11.5mm valve lift*

ARIAS

Suit RB30/26

p/n= AP332103

flat top

21mm pin

1.280" compression height

Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm).

COMPRESSION RATIO 8.4-8.6

Suit RB30/26

p/n= AP332104

10.6cc dome top

21mm pin

1.280" compression height

Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm).

COMPRESSION RATIO 9.2-9.4

Suit RB30/25

p/n= AP332105

13cc dome top

21mm pin

1.280" compression height

Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm).

COMPRESSION RATIO 9.5-9.8

WISECO

Skyline RB30 w/ DOHC RB25det cylinder head

1.260" compresion height, 66.5cc head chamber, Dish top -11.3cc, 7.0:1 compression ratio, 21mm pin, 1mm gasket thickness, 1mm deck clearance.

K577M865 86.5mm

K577M87 87.00mm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5344658
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Especially titan. Extreamly helpful. Now know exactly what pistons will give me what comp ratios. As car is being built for circuit use, response is important, so a comp ratio of 9:1 would be excellent. Arias dome tops it is. 9.2 - 9.4 pending they in stock other wise dome top CP's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5345149
Share on other sites

I've got the Wisecos (was originally built before all the others came out, I think they're pretty much 30ET pistons), still got plenty of off boost torque even with the 7:1 CR, we'll see what it does with the new turbo.. I imagine I'll be able to safely run heaps of boost and timing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5345384
Share on other sites

had a play around with some figures today and the 10.6cc dome top arias and the 6cc dome top CP both seem that they will get me where i need to be. The 13cc dome top arias will obviously give me a fairly high comp ratio and in turn will hinder the amount of boost i can wind into it. Im planning on running about 17 psi through a gt3582 at this stage.

The flat top pistons all seem to ofter a dramatically low CR and im not planning on throwing response out the window lol.

On a seperate note, i began removal of gearbox from the 33 this arvo. Clutch slave off... Tail shaft bolts off... So i started to remove bolts from block to box and got stuck on that annoying little f**ker right up the top. Any tips or suggestions or am i pulling the head off tomorrow???? Lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5346391
Share on other sites

I've got the Wisecos (was originally built before all the others came out, I think they're pretty much 30ET pistons), still got plenty of off boost torque even with the 7:1 CR, we'll see what it does with the new turbo.. I imagine I'll be able to safely run heaps of boost and timing!
I imagined it would of been a dog of a thing down low with that CR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5346412
Share on other sites

On a seperate note, i began removal of gearbox from the 33 this arvo. Clutch slave off... Tail shaft bolts off... So i started to remove bolts from block to box and got stuck on that annoying little f**ker right up the top. Any tips or suggestions or am i pulling the head off tomorrow???? Lol

Lots of really long extensions... like a few feet worth.. that's how I get to the top bellhousing bolts on mine.

I imagined it would of been a dog of a thing down low with that CR

Nope, not as bad as you'd think. Small turbo and stock runners, so we'll see what it's like with the bigger turbo and a forward facing plenum once it's back together. I imagine if I was to run really big cams then it would probably be quite noticable but I'm only running stockers.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5346489
Share on other sites

had a play around with some figures today and the 10.6cc dome top arias and the 6cc dome top CP both seem that they will get me where i need to be. The 13cc dome top arias will obviously give me a fairly high comp ratio and in turn will hinder the amount of boost i can wind into it. Im planning on running about 17 psi through a gt3582 at this stage.

The flat top pistons all seem to ofter a dramatically low CR and im not planning on throwing response out the window lol.

On a seperate note, i began removal of gearbox from the 33 this arvo. Clutch slave off... Tail shaft bolts off... So i started to remove bolts from block to box and got stuck on that annoying little f**ker right up the top. Any tips or suggestions or am i pulling the head off tomorrow???? Lol

I have a metre long extension for that annoying bolt. works a treat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5346498
Share on other sites

lol gearbox out... what a pain. would not wish that upon my enemies; as im very impatient i took to the stick with an angle grinder...

now i can rip the fly wheel out so i can get it balanced up with my rb30 crank and balancer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5348499
Share on other sites

Yeh weve learnt over the last 5 years of in/outs its just easier to disconnect everything and just take motor/gbox out in one hit. Do what you need to do, then chuck it back in!

Comment about your piston choice mate. Your going for higher comps to help response? Weve run both cp's flat top and domes and its makes bugger all difference. What does make the difference is manifold choices. Or so we found when at the track.

On a road car running 9:1 might be well and good, but for 95% of the time whilst on the race track you never fall off boost so much that you would really need that extra comp to help get you back on. Whilst racing you more then likely wont notice the difference. I couldnt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5349081
Share on other sites

Yeh weve learnt over the last 5 years of in/outs its just easier to disconnect everything and just take motor/gbox out in one hit. Do what you need to do, then chuck it back in! Comment about your piston choice mate. Your going for higher comps to help response? Weve run both cp's flat top and domes and its makes bugger all difference. What does make the difference is manifold choices. Or so we found when at the track. On a road car running 9:1 might be well and good, but for 95% of the time whilst on the race track you never fall off boost so much that you would really need that extra comp to help get you back on. Whilst racing you more then likely wont notice the difference. I couldnt.
point taken. i have done a lot of research and talking to people over past week including people who have rb30det with lower CR and i feel that staying close to the 9:1 ratio will suit my application. i guess time will soon tell. so you have played around with a few different exhaust manifolds to get the correct result?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328764-which-pistons/#findComment-5350252
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...