Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok going back awhile ago one my mates had this thing that looked like a gps (stuck on the window of your car and pluged in too your ciga lighter) and it gave you rought 1/4 mile times and 0 - 100 kms and a few other things , they where not 100% but close enough.

my question is WTF is it called i cant think of the name of it and where can you buy them?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328963-1-4-mile-estimator/
Share on other sites

if anyone has a Nokia then go onto OVI Store and there is one on there that you can download onto the phone.

It is called RACECHROMO and it was a free download.

it does 1/4 mile, 1000metres, 1 mile, 0-60mph, 0-100kph,0-200kph ( now that would be interesting :blink: )80-120kph plus a few more.

Plus it does laptiming as well.

Cool app.

ok going back awhile ago one my mates had this thing that looked like a gps (stuck on the window of your car and pluged in too your ciga lighter) and it gave you rought 1/4 mile times and 0 - 100 kms and a few other things , they where not 100% but close enough.

my question is WTF is it called i cant think of the name of it and where can you buy them?

thanks

they are called a G-TECH.

Called a G-Tech Pro

Found here http://www.gtechpro.com/

ok going back awhile ago one my mates had this thing that looked like a gps (stuck on the window of your car and pluged in too your ciga lighter) and it gave you rought 1/4 mile times and 0 - 100 kms and a few other things , they where not 100% but close enough.

my question is WTF is it called i cant think of the name of it and where can you buy them?

thanks

G-Tech Pro SS or RR sounds like it...you can buy them off eBay for a couple hundred these days.

Nothing beats the original, superseded LED G-Tech though...I used to sell them for $100 each. They were very small and surprisingly accurate as long as you kept your end of the bargain when it came to choosing a flat road.

all these things that i have found to be horribly innaccurate. i've mentioned it on here before about the iphone one. i was steering my mates VL, GT35R, nistune, 700cc injectors etc, had the thing flat out for over 20sec before the iphone decided we had completed a 1/4 mile

find a quiet road, measure out 400m, do runs with a stop watch. most people dont realise just how close you can get it yourself, think about it, if you mark two clear lines on the road, you should be able to hit the button to start/stop within a tenth or so of where you should be...

I dunno about the iphone app etc, but many people have tested RSM's and found them to be within a tenth or so of their times on the strip.

Considering it intercepts your computers speed and revs and uses a g sensor to correct, it should be fairly reliable.

I dunno about the iphone app etc, but many people have tested RSM's and found them to be within a tenth or so of their times on the strip.

Considering it intercepts your computers speed and revs and uses a g sensor to correct, it should be fairly reliable.

exactly. the only ways it will give false readings is from slightly different tyre sizes and if you get wheelspin as it will count that as distance travelled.

exactly. the only ways it will give false readings is from slightly different tyre sizes and if you get wheelspin as it will count that as distance travelled.

It even has a setting the enter your tire sizes to make it accurate again :D And I think the g sensor stops it from counting distance when you are doing xxkm/h but not pulling the g's to match

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...