Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the vipec should give pretty good boost control if they spend time getting it setup, you can make a pretty decent sized map to tell the solenoid what to do under what conditions, even make it use less boost in lower gears.

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK! How does this one sound. I PM'd CRD, and this is the reply I got:

Hi,

Thank you for contacting CRD.

We have available a turbo upgrade kit which to suit the R33 GTS-T.

The kit compromises of a genuine GARRETT GT3076R ball bearing turbo charger with 0.82 exhaust housing, 16psi actuator and includes the T3 spacer, 3076 flange gasket, stud kit turbine outlet, stud kit turbine inlet, oil drain tube & gasket, oil drain hose, hose clamps, oil inlet fittings, copper washers, actuator bracket, long actuator rod, actuator 16lbs, oil line, water line, water fittings & bolts direct to standard factory dump pipes

TOTAL KIT PRICE $2795

Feel free to contact us should you require further information

Cheers

Andrej@

TeamCRD

Sounds about right to me, TiTAN/others, is this what I'm after, and does this price sound right?

That does sound good.

Another option I had a quote from GCG Turbochargers for a similar kit:

We can supply a kit which consists of the following:

-GT3076R with Garrett T3 5 Bolt turbine housing

-Spacer Plate

-Studs, Nuts and all Gaskets

-Oil and Water line kit

-Silicon elbow for intercooler plumbing

-Stainless dump pipe

Cost: $3000 as of 9th Feb 2010.

Not sure if that kit still exists at that price but I assume so. I can vouch for GCGs excellent service and after sales support!

Edited by Harey
OK! How does this one sound. I PM'd CRD, and this is the reply I got:

Sounds about right to me, TiTAN/others, is this what I'm after, and does this price sound right?

Sounds good.

I just put a 3076R IW with a .82 rear on my NEO - on a conservative daily driver tune (ie MILES away from knock) it makes 273rwkw by 5.75k and holds to redline. No boost control issues at all with the IW. Yes external is better, but also more expensive and harder to 'hide' from our lovely lawmen. Got the genuine Garret article with the 4-bolt exhaust and got a custom manifold spacer and stud extensions made up. Cost me around the same.

Dyno sheet attached - wasn't floored on the dyno (or it's to do with ramp rate) so it looks a bit lazy onto boost - on the road in 2nd / 3rd 18psi is up just after 4k rpm. The lift in the midrange over krzysiu's graph i'll attribute to the NEO (saw the same thing at Morpowa comparing mine to an exact same setup R33). Doesn't feel 'laggy' at all (unless you're in 3rd at 50 or something silly) - obviously it takes a bit longer than factory to come on, but it's still much faster off boost than it used to be with a proper tune (i'm running a Haltech P2000 and 3bar map) - but the NEO does help i suppose...

I wouldn't go the .63 - lack of throttle control (= too much wheelspin) and excess heat / loss of headroom is not worth it, especially if you are chasing more down the track.

Also go the biggest injectors you can find to fit / tune nicely with the ECU you are getting - 270 odd rwkw turns into a nice 320+ on E85 as long as you have the scope in injector duty. 555's will run out before that on E85 and you'll wish you went bigger.

I went 750s and expecting 320-330rwkw when i get an E85 tune in a couple weeks - best to get big enough now so you don't change them later - E85 is the future it seems.

Just my 2 (or possibly 5) c.

:)

OK! How does this one sound. I PM'd CRD, and this is the reply I got:

Sounds about right to me, TiTAN/others, is this what I'm after, and does this price sound right?

sounds good except the part where it says bolts up to the standard skyline dump pipe,which would indicate an aftermarket exhaust housing and not a genuine garret 0.82 housing.

sounds good except the part where it says bolts up to the standard skyline dump pipe,which would indicate an aftermarket exhaust housing and not a genuine garret 0.82 housing.

Garret make a 4 bolt exhaust housing that bolts straight up to the dump - it's what I'm running.

Garret make a 4 bolt exhaust housing that bolts straight up to the dump - it's what I'm running.

on the GCG website there are two different 3076 56trim models listed (for internal wastegate), one part number G700382-12 is the 100% standard off the shelf garrett unit, the other is this one G999999-5001 which doesnt have the anti surge slots, has a much smaller than 4" inlet, and looks to have a different compressor cover all together, then rather than garretts standard 5 bolt internal wastegate housings it has a custom turbine housing made to fit the stock skyline dump pipe design.

the off the shelf garrett version might be a little more to buy and fit but you know exactly what you are getting and that if you want to turn it up later it will do 300-320RWKW

Thanks for that Andrej

The only question I have regarding that package - does it use a genuine Garrett exhaust housing? It has been questioned, since apparently the Garrett exhaust housings don't bolt up to stock dumps....is this the "T3 spacer" and "stud kit turbine outlet" that is listed in the quote?

Thanks again smile.gif

Hi,

Your correct, the comp cover, core & cartridge are 100% genuine GARRETT components although to be able to bolt direct to the factory manifold and dump we use a quality Sonic cast exhaust housing made to exacting dimensions to ensure 100% performance.

To date each and every kit we have installed has come up prefect with excellent results and reliability for all customers.

Let me know if I can help you with any further information.

Cheers

Andrej@

TeamCRD

This acceptable TiTAN? lol

no thoughts from those who've spoken up on the above?

I ordered my turbo directly from Garrett and got an IW housing with port shrouding that bolted straight up to both manifold and dump pipe... (as far as i'm aware...)

Edited by gwilkinson34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...