Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

JDM stands for Japanese Domestic Market. Given its a Japanese car, I'm gonna say its JDM already!

Other then that, plenty of carbon fibre, some BRIDE seats with full BRIDE interior trim, stretched tires, epic fitment wheels, your well on your way!

Well this is what I have in mind:

Nismo Gear Shifter (Dildo style silver :thumbsup:)

Exhaust/Extractors (Not a cannon tho)

Black Window Tint

Rims

Body Kit (400r or V1 Aero Style)

Cold Air Induction

Bucket seat's/Harnesses But Need Wide Bucket Seats Cause Im a fat bastard

Nismo Smoked Side Indicators

Xenon Head-Light Conversion

White L.E.D Globes Replacing Dash Dials (but i dont want to do it myself, i did it on my previous car and didnt like pulling the cluster apart, it changed the dials)

Thats about it...

But i need part names and brands etc cause i have no idea etc. My car is a white series 2 R33 GTS

is this thread for real??? like seriously am i entering a troll thread?

guys?

help me out here?

are you actually from hiroshima?

im scared.

okay. you dont understand offset, ill try explain. imagine a wheel, there's two parts to the wheel. the "face" and the "rim" (barrel)

say the rim of that wheel is 8 inches wide. the centre of that width is considered a zero offset. meaning it's mounting face offset neither negative nor positive.

if the mounting face moves "inward" it is a negative offset. positive if the mounting face is toward the outer of the rim.

soooooooo a 8in +35 offset, means, the mounting of the face is 4inches into the wheel. but 35mm toward the outer of the wheel.

as for your dumbass "im only 4 stud" arguement. SHUT UP. you want rims? i'll get you rims if you're in australia.

windingseven-img581x600-126633877763n4dy25743.jpg

work VS

18in by 8.5 +19 offset in front

18in by 9.5 +19 offset in rear

with tyres. about $1600 delivered to victoria. so freight to your city may be extra.

dfrph821-img600x450-1278069102rajsy559673.jpg

Work meisters. black. would look GREAT on a white R33.

18in by 8.5 +24 all round

with tyres

about 1600/1700 deliv. to victoria

its very easy to get your car looking "JDM"

your car IS jdm. i don't get you, man...

where are you located? want some rear coilovers? PM me.

EDIT: i'm 4stud. proud of it, too!

zzcefiro1.jpg

Edited by Mr Eps

Juz, I'm running 18x9 with +26 offset. A bigger offset would mean that the wheel sits further inside the car; as it is, running 255/35/18's, I have the possibility of scrubbage on a big dip, so +36 would be better as the tyre sits more under the car, and away from the lip.

I suggest GTR skirts and rear pods, cause they're sleek and subtle, and as for front bar, nothing too ostentatious. I originally had the GTR bar, but now running Top Secret... You know how it looks :thumbsup:

Bronze would be good... I'd stick with 5 or 6 spoke, I do quite like the RSGT's from Ozzy Tyres though...

http://www.ozzytyres.com.au/Content_Common...47CAA7&pg=6

In the middle there. I rang a bit ago for someone I know; for a set of 18's, they're after $1800 or so including (shitty) tyres. To do that, you'd need to do the stud conversion from 4 to 5 stud.

A few of those other things on your list I've got; if you want I'll take some photos on the weekend and shoot them your way.

Edit::

Shhhh, Eps. Shhhh *pats* He's a youngin, so he's still learning :ph34r:

I reckon...

- For wheels look at wheels by XXR, Axis eg. XXR 002.. 4 stud, come in good offset, are wide etc.. make for a tough stance and are pretty cheap and come in good colours eg Black/Silver Lip.

- If you have the stock bodykit on your S2, leave it... nothing is more stupid then a over done bodykit on a non turbo skyline eg 400r / GTR/ whatever, it looks ricey.

- Clear Side / Front Indicators.

- Lowered.

- Extractors + 2.5" Exhaust, Oval Muffler Rear.

- Cheap Metal Intake pipe + fully sealed airbox + 3a pod filter OR just have a high flow panel in stock box not much dif.

- Drift Lip spoiler.

- Black/White Colour scheme of things.

- Debadge.

haha no i just don't get it cos the thread starter has been around for a while he's made some GREAT posts i serioulsy thought he was joking!!!

i say don't do body mods. it's a waste of time on a GTS (no offence) same with engine mods. maybe get a NEAT chrome exhaust tip to freshen it up. MAYBE get a black boot lip. nothing else. you're never going to make a GTS go fast, so don't waste your time! (sorry!)

get SWEET coilovers. lower your stance. get wheels. these are things that will ADD value to the car really.. (or at least stop depreciation!)

as for bobjane / ozzy / drifteks / tempe. XXR / SPORTMAX / chinese shit PLEASE STOP THE COPY. get genuine wheels. or you'll be buying another set in a few months time (that's my opinion) japanese companies spend millions of yen and time developing and designing their own wheels which are quality, and rare. every time a cast iron chinese rim gets bought over the counter - it's extra stress on the industry who INVENT and create. Ueno's business (Vertex) suffers terribly because of these people and he designed the parts and manufactured them in the shop that he opened!!! so please.... don't go copy rims.

get the special ones :nyaanyaa:

CPD

onto you - why do you want new headlights? have you tried a re-condition? if you REALLY need new headlights (as in you've tried everything to get them looking nice there's a REALLY nice pair i can show you... i'll PM you the link

actually - i'll just post it here in case you aren't good with computers :)

CLICK THIS LINK

Edited by Mr Eps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...