Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The speeds etc look right.

Mine is the same.

On 12.5psi I made 152rwkw on RPM's Dyno then 15psi made 164rwkw (turbo runs out of puff). Turbo's differe and give you a rough idea. You could be making +10-15rwkw.

Jay95R33.

If you are getting boost drop no matter what you bump it up to you will always drop to that same psi up top. Get your self an RB20t wastegate that is a little stronger (10-11psi stock). UNLESS you get your self a good EBC that learn's the boost curve and can adjust the solanoids on the fly to make it hold boost. I.e Blitz SBC-ID & AVCR.

You don't have to remove the turbo to replace the actuator.

Why buy an aftermarket actuator?? All you have to do is install a coupla washers onto the mounting points of the stock actuator and this automatically puts more pressure onto the wastegate flap!

I put 2 washers on each, and this raised the boost by 3psi from stock! Good value for 20c compared to a few hundred $$$. Less spiking from the bleeder too, since it now had to bleed substatially less boost to get the same result.

Cool - thanks Joel. I never thought of that !! So the RB20 turbo's have the same actuator (but diff spring rates)?

Busky2k - I'm not a big fan of dodging up the actuator. Seen a few people play with them like bending it and putting extra springs on, but they are never the same.

J

  • 1 year later...

SDEWY5,

That would be because you are not mechanically inclined.

The washer, elongated holes or adjustable rods work fine.

In fact the washer or the rest would be more reliable, at least you know its not going to jam or bugger up.

Whats with the 2004 post revival?? haha :D

  • 2 years later...
  • 4 weeks later...

is there any reason why this is in the forced induction quick ref guide, there is no real help here unless i missed something, some one had a flat spot and does not know how he fixed it, what help is that?

there is also a lot of reference to a dyno graph that is no longer here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...