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The speeds etc look right.

Mine is the same.

On 12.5psi I made 152rwkw on RPM's Dyno then 15psi made 164rwkw (turbo runs out of puff). Turbo's differe and give you a rough idea. You could be making +10-15rwkw.

Jay95R33.

If you are getting boost drop no matter what you bump it up to you will always drop to that same psi up top. Get your self an RB20t wastegate that is a little stronger (10-11psi stock). UNLESS you get your self a good EBC that learn's the boost curve and can adjust the solanoids on the fly to make it hold boost. I.e Blitz SBC-ID & AVCR.

You don't have to remove the turbo to replace the actuator.

Why buy an aftermarket actuator?? All you have to do is install a coupla washers onto the mounting points of the stock actuator and this automatically puts more pressure onto the wastegate flap!

I put 2 washers on each, and this raised the boost by 3psi from stock! Good value for 20c compared to a few hundred $$$. Less spiking from the bleeder too, since it now had to bleed substatially less boost to get the same result.

Cool - thanks Joel. I never thought of that !! So the RB20 turbo's have the same actuator (but diff spring rates)?

Busky2k - I'm not a big fan of dodging up the actuator. Seen a few people play with them like bending it and putting extra springs on, but they are never the same.

J

  • 1 year later...

SDEWY5,

That would be because you are not mechanically inclined.

The washer, elongated holes or adjustable rods work fine.

In fact the washer or the rest would be more reliable, at least you know its not going to jam or bugger up.

Whats with the 2004 post revival?? haha :D

  • 2 years later...
  • 4 weeks later...

is there any reason why this is in the forced induction quick ref guide, there is no real help here unless i missed something, some one had a flat spot and does not know how he fixed it, what help is that?

there is also a lot of reference to a dyno graph that is no longer here.

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