Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all im new to the forum,

I have got a 98 model r33 gtst and i am about to change my timing belt, tensioner, idler and all that. im just wondering if anyone has done it before and if there is any tips and tricks for doing it and any no no's? Im doing the 100,000km service bought all the stuff already just gotta do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330430-help-timing-belt-service/
Share on other sites

if your gonna hold onto the car its worth doin the waterpump aswell. think it was 120 from nissan and is behind all that. mine started leaking from tell tale about 120,000 and saves pulling it apart again

yeah iv got the the cam seals, yeah i would but going over seas for a hol at the end of the year so i cant afford to spend much on my car this year other wise i would stick on my t4 turbo.

yeah iv got the the cam seals, yeah i would but going over seas for a hol at the end of the year so i cant afford to spend much on my car this year other wise i would stick on my t4 turbo.

T4 turbo? eh

Check the timing after you're done with a timing light. Something I didn't when my timing belt was done, and the guy that did my belt didn't know it either appereantly. Someone gave me the tip, went and got it checked. Timing was at 21 degrees, while the RB25DET is supposed to have a timing of 15 degrees.

Check the timing after you're done with a timing light. Something I didn't when my timing belt was done, and the guy that did my belt didn't know it either appereantly. Someone gave me the tip, went and got it checked. Timing was at 21 degrees, while the RB25DET is supposed to have a timing of 15 degrees.

+1. I have the same issue which is getting fixed at the end of this week. The timing belt was done on my R33 and the timing was set to 10 degrees for some reason. As far as I am aware a manual RB25DET is 15 degrees and an auto RB25DET is 20 degrees.

Tips:...

*Mark the valve timing

*Seal the water pump good

*Make sure cam / crank seals are in 100%

*Check ignition timing afterwards

*Once the new belt is on, turn the motor over 2-3 times

*Locite on the crank bolt and make sure its tight!

*If you can, torque the bolts

*Make sure belt tension is correct

Thats all I can think off atm. :/

how do i suppose to tell how many degrees is mine in?? becoz i just changed my timing belt recently too and i notice my gear ratio is a bit different when i change gears, the acceleration goes up more than usual everytime i step it i guess??

Easiest way is to go to a garage that uses a timing light. Shouldn't be expensive, and done in a matter of minutes. The timing is adjusted through the CAS, and it's really a matter of millimeters, so if you're not sure about what you're doing, let someone else do it. When the timing is really off, it can do some nasty things to your motor in the long run.

sweet, that might be a good idea then, take it to a mechanic to get the timing checked once iv changed the timing belt. This might be a stupid question but is the cas the comp in the car or what? Im not bad when it comes to hand on shit seeing as im a aircraft mechanic and i should be seeing as i do it everyday haha but when it comes to other shit im hopeless haha. Thanks for all your help.

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...