Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I've been doing some thinking for some upgrades/mods to my 1997 sII 33.

Below is a list of what I'd like to put in the car but im not sure if ill need anything else. I could be completely off with what I've put down. I want a bit more power but mainly prefer looks vs power. I like all the cool gadjets on the dash and the look of the big f**k off intercooler but realise you can't just add a front mount, cos most likely you'll loose a bit of power. so here's what ive come up with so far:

I'll be putting a bodykit on the car and also spraying it - but thats another thing on the back burner - onto the performance fun stuff

The car currently only has a pod filter

Apexi Super AFC II - Make sure its not running lean/rich too bad and engine is happy, plus it looks wicked on the dash

Apexi AVCR - boost controller, looks awesome on the dash also. Probably run 10psi stock

Hybrid FMIC - Brand doesnt really matter as far as I know.

Hybrid Exhaust - Some brand 3" from the cat back

HKS Adjustable Cam Gear - These look sweet and do stuff im sure :P

Trust Clear Cam cover - Do these exist for rb25?

Two a-pillar guages

Some form of cold air box

Ok now some questions:

1). Do you need to change the plenum to add in the above stuff?

2). What else would need to be added if I was to add a hks gt2530? Fuel pump? regulator? other stuff?

Thats about it. Let me know if you my ideas are good/crap/bad etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33134-recommended-stage-1-upgrade/
Share on other sites

1. no

2. this been covered a fair bit before.. search is your friend.

but otherwise thats not a bad plan of attack.. depends how far away u are going to put on the turbo, but if its soon don't bother with the SAFC

Well after doing some further research the aftermarket turbo can be skipped. I dont really wanna make that much more power, the stock gtst is fine. I prefer the look of a cleaned up engine bay vs a 450hp turbo. Anyone got some cool pics of a dressed up rb25? Looks is all good but i still want some grunt, aka more boost and safc

Ditch your Ex Cam Gear + Clear Cover and get a 3" Front/Dump pipe and 3" Cat. It will cost the same and give you the same power but by having a full 3" exhaust you will be able to run higher boost (which will look better on your funky looking gauges for all the boyz)

Ditch your Ex Cam Gear + Clear Cover and get a 3" Front/Dump pipe and 3" Cat. It will cost the same and give you the same power but by having a full 3" exhaust you will be able to run higher boost (which will look better on your funky looking gauges for all the boyz)

With that said though, it may be handy to have an exhaust cam gear as RB25's tend to gain quite a bit through retarding a few degrees...this along with a full turbo back (inc. dump/front, cat etc.) 3" exhaust would be enough for anyone with a stock turbo gts-t.

sweet - thanks for the feedback. at least im getting some ideas.

well as part of the 3" zorst il get them to do a dump pipe and new cat

is the current dump and cat 2.25" like the stock zorst?

does it flow like this?

[Turbo]

{ DUMP }

/

/

[CAT]

|

|

[ rest of zorst ]

turbo, dump, front,cat, catback exhaust. (sometimes the dump and front are 1 piece)

i think the cam gears are a good addition to the r33 rb25, only seem good results from these as people reporting from 10rwkw, upto 15rwkw increase in the midrange, not to mention the turbo spooling up quicker.

The car currently only has a pod filter

Apexi Super AFC II - Make sure its not running lean/rich too bad and engine is happy, plus it looks wicked on the dash

Apexi AVCR - boost controller, looks awesome on the dash also. Probably run 10psi stock

Hybrid FMIC - Brand doesnt really matter as far as I know.  

Hybrid Exhaust - Some brand 3" from the cat back

HKS Adjustable Cam Gear - These look sweet and do stuff im sure :)

Trust Clear Cam cover - Do these exist for rb25?

Two a-pillar guages

Some form of cold air box

thats a nice little package :) i've got an avcr (@ 9 psi), safc II, hybrid monster cooler, fujitsubo cat back and a k&n filter in the standard airbox (no snorkel) and i'm making 180rwkw :) i think the trust clear cam cover can fit on an RB25 (check nengun's web site) :D

If you dont plan on changing the turbo but want to maximise your HP follow this setup:

1. 3" dump+front pipe off the turbo to the cat. (this is help the stock turbo to spool 500rpm earlier)

2. 3.5" cat back exhaust. If max hp is your aim go for something like an apexi n1 system which has no resonator's and is pretty free flowing, downside is its quite loud and you could get a defect.

3. Stronger/heavier clutch, just a single plate unit with 2200-2500pound pressure plate and a lightweight (ogura flywheel is 4.5kg's lightest around) flywheel. This will help you put the power to the ground and make the car more free reving.

4. Boost controller. If you are doing this on a budget a simple bleed valve will do the job or if you have the dosh buy an electronic one as they hold boost better, dont spike and build it faster usually. However if you decide to get an aftermarket ecu some of them have boost control built in.

5. Aftermarket ecu or SAFC. If you want to make maximum hp go for the ecu it will cost more but will make the car much more fun to drive. A wolf3d has built in boost control as well which is a plus but more people around australia can tune the powerfc.

6. Exhaust cam gear + better brake pads. Cam gear will give more midrange and you will now need some better brake pads to help you pull up.

With all this you should have somewhere between 280-300hp (dyno dependant) but this is what we have been seeing in perth on a dyno dynamics accredited dyno.

Have I left anything out?

Thanks for the great feedback and ideas guys. I know have a good idea what to get. I will do up a final parts list and get some quotes for it all to be supplied/fitted/tuned.

Am i better off getting the parts myself and have a performance shop fit/tune it all or just better off saying i want these parts supplied/fitte/tuned

of course cost depending

Am i better off getting the parts myself and have a performance shop fit/tune it all or just better off saying i want these parts supplied/fitte/tuned

of course cost depending

it's up to you... i found a place that had decent prices and could do the installation and dyno tuning for me, so i did the all in one supply/fit/tune option... if you interested in the place I got mine done (since your in melb too) PM me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...