Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, i want to check my CAS timing, and have no idea how to, nor do i have the tools, does anyone in the SE have the tools and know what to do? and know your shit regarding them? as they can be fatal if not done correctly!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331820-anyone-in-the-se-know-cas-timing/
Share on other sites

goto autobarn and buy a timing light

thats all you need

once engine is warm and running use the timing light (it will come with instructions) to read base timing

for rb25 it should be bang on 15deg. if you get any other number, your CAS is offset and must be adjusted

when i say offset, as in, it is dialed forward or backward. at idle, the timing is locked so for rb25 it is always 15deg

so if your timing light said say 12deg, then this means your entire tune is 3deg off, which means it will be sluggish

the ECU assumes your timing is bang on as per the CAS and won't know if its offset (ie backdialed/forward)

once you adjust, run a check with timing light and keep going until you get to 15deg at idle

goto autobarn and buy a timing light

thats all you need

once engine is warm and running use the timing light (it will come with instructions) to read base timing

for rb25 it should be bang on 15deg. if you get any other number, your CAS is offset and must be adjusted

when i say offset, as in, it is dialed forward or backward. at idle, the timing is locked so for rb25 it is always 15deg

so if your timing light said say 12deg, then this means your entire tune is 3deg off, which means it will be sluggish

the ECU assumes your timing is bang on as per the CAS and won't know if its offset (ie backdialed/forward)

once you adjust, run a check with timing light and keep going until you get to 15deg at idle

ok, i guess ill give it a try.

if say its off by 3 degrees, how do i know which way to turn the cas to correct it? im assuming just so the bolts are center of the holes?

no idea, someone on here would know how to use a timing light on RB25

surely it can't be hard ? the timing light will tell you what timing you have at idle

it should be 15deg for rb25. so if at idle the timing light tells you any other number than 15, your cas needs to be adjusted

no idea, someone on here would know how to use a timing light on RB25

surely it can't be hard ? the timing light will tell you what timing you have at idle

it should be 15deg for rb25. so if at idle the timing light tells you any other number than 15, your cas needs to be adjusted

ok, cheers mate, hopefuly someone has a read of this thread and posts how to hook the lines into the spark plugs

The timing light comes with a spark plug socket and also a clip which can be clipped to a specific wire. On the rb25 at the back of the block where the coil pack wire harness is you should see a white wire I think sticking out you clip the light to that.

depends on what timing light you get, the crap one usually can only pick up the signal from HT lead which you don't have in RB25 so what I normally do if I have to use bottom of the range timing light, I undo the No.1 coil pack with 8mm socket which is the first one you see when you open the bonnet. then connect the spark lead between the coil pack and spark plug then. Fron there you can clip the timing light signal pick up to the lead and connect 12v

ok will do

so does the timing light say as a figure what degree its out?

and how do you connect them to the plug if it has coilpacks? they are completely enclosed :S

Hook it up as Panko described (you can get a short spark lead when you get the timing light).

You read the timing on the crank pulley (big one down the bottom of the front of the engine). There is a set of 7 marks at 5 deg increments, which move from driver side to passenger side (L->R as you stand looking into the engine bay). The last mark (left-most) is TDC (Top Dead Centre). Each time the coil fires on the #1 cylinder, the timing light will flash its light. The flash will "stop" the crank pulley so you can read which mark is aligned with the pointer located on the crank case cover. You want 15 deg BTDC (Before TDC), which should be the 4th mark (from either end).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...