Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Want to seperate the glass off the front of my R32 headlamps..

I pulled the clips off and tried to cut around the seal with a razor but the blade wont cut through without putting a mass amount of strength into it..

I have noticed people have managed to pull them off in the past, just keen to know if there is a trick to cutting it off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332235-seperating-glass-from-headlight-r32/
Share on other sites

oven, not too hot, just to get the silicone in the groove pliable. then while wearing gloves apply force evenly. carful, if you try to lever it out, the glass will break.

I posted up a DIY with pics about 7 years ago on how to do it. god knows where it is now.

iv used the oven method bout 5 times

pull metal clips of headlight

preheat the over to bout 180-200 degress

stick headlight in there for bout 5-7mins keeping a close eye on it,

glass will be very hot so wear gloves and keep a flat ended screw driver handy

haha obviously you've already done this so it's irrelevent but if anybody else read this - DONT let it touch the walls. it will melt the plastic.

and please lay the oven with baking paper - dont put it straight on the racks. they will also melt it :P

I put it on a cotton towel (not synthetic cos it'll melt) in the oven. done about 14 headlights this way, pulled it apart, painted the insides or installed HID upgrades and then put it back together. If you leave the silicone sealant pliable, then you can just use a heat gun to make it flow again and reseal the glass when you put it back in.

If you want to remove the silicone, then bunnings sells this putty that reacts with silicone and sealants and makes them go gelatinous, which makes it really easy to just brush it out after and reseal from scratch or install fibreglass/plastic clear lenses.

another thing...

never use "cheap crap" and just "slap em back together"

it's when you start thinking things like "oh better get this done quickly so i can catch that episode of Becker"

or

"better UHUstik my lights back together so i can go to bed"

think of the effort you've gone to to do this - the removal, seperating, cleaning, repairing, restoring etc...

think of all that

it'd be a shame if you did a rush job using "that'll do" products only to find out that they leak in about a weeks time :)

EDIT: not saying sikaflex is cheap crap necessarilly im just saying sleep on it - spend the extra 5 bucks on a product that you KNOW will work. take your time and do it right the first time...

Edited by Mr Eps
not saying sikaflex is cheap crap necessarilly im just saying sleep on it - spend the extra 5 bucks on a product that you KNOW will work. take your time and do it right the first time...

sickaflex held my sideskirts on at 110km/h for 800km straight. I'd say it's safe.

yep.. I dare say you havnt used sikaflex before LOL you will break the glass before you get it off again. Its the same strength urethane product used to holding down your windscreen.

I never rush things ;)

btw funkymonkey.. have you got some pics of what your headlamps looked like on the car after you were done?

Edited by BANGN
  • 3 weeks later...
So can you use the original silicon stuff thats alreaady there to seal it back up? Aand would this work on an r33? plastic headlights?

no. plastic warps when heated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...