Mines R34 v HKS R33

[Maxx]

They use Ohlin's double adjustable dampers, arguably the duck’s guts at the moment  

Last, but by no means least, I can’t afford Mines prices, they make my nose bleed, they are so high

yeah, the mines damper was made by ohlin, but mines spec.

my friend quote a pair of dry carbon aero mirror of mines, ONLY cost a$1400, that is a price he buy in japan... :Bang:

[meshmesh]

guys,

what are your thoughts on maybe starting a "Project Thread" on specs to build our own "SAU Gtr N1", perhaps focusing on finer points rather than the average mods - Exhaust, Pods, PFC, CAI..

The criteria would be (maybe basing it on Mine's theory) eg:

1. Power limit around 600hp

2. Budget ??? (leave this up to you - maybe to save money we could option used) Maybe 10-20K

3. Weight reduction options - as light as possible

4. Has to be realisticlly street drivable

5. Like "the man who says he doesn't know everything ;)" SydneyKid said, "Mine's concentrate their efforts on response from the engine, not outright power" Maybe we should concentrate a little more here, also.

6. Finally, keeping the Sleeper look retainging as much of the standard car as possible.

[HKSgtst]

10-20k budget ? i wish modifying cars were that easy ...

[T0nyGTSt]

This is the name of the file you are after:

BM_Tuned_Skyline_Battle.wmv

41Mb

5 x r34 GT-R tuned on Suzuka from BMI with Tsuchiya and Orido.

I got it from work.

T.

[Roy]

^ Even the Gibson R32's had around 640 bhp and they ran on slicks

^ They run high compression ratios, over 9 to 1 is common

^ The Gibson R32's were 9.5 to 1

^ Before it can accelerate the car, the engine has to accelerate itself, so they use lightweight components like crank, rods, pistons, valves, retainers, buckets etc

But thats why im so supsicious of the Step 2 cars performance, the information i have is that its done all std bottom end!!! (based on the assumption that crank/rods/pistons increase an engines inertia more then the DOHC vavlegear)

What got me thinking about this was going thru my old vids which included GMS/Winfield GTRs and HKS GTR, the difference in which they revved in 3rd and 4th gears. (all cars are using 6spds)

That and so may credit the performance of the Mines GTR purely to the fact that it runs 2530s (as good as they may be, i dont think they deserve near the credit they recieve for the cars performance)

..and thanks Tony

[lwells]

Does anyone on here run a carbon prop? Anyone know where to source one? What about a Carbon Kevlar prop?

Lucien.

[T0nyGTSt]

Wow...

Hardcore.

I think that people realise that POWER is easy.

Streetability, engine response is where it's at.

So in that regard what is needed to make the RB motors spin up fast to the redline.

I think carbon shafts are overkill but what about cheaper and more conventional items like lightened flywheels (I have a Toda!) and if you're really serious, lightened internals.

What else can we do to make the motor spin up with such ease?

T.

[lwells]

Well rotating mass is critical, hence a prop shaft weight reduction is so effective at allowing faster spin up. My ultimate goal is to make a "response R32" within a reasonable budget, hence I would like to hear if anyone has one of these props.

Tony: skies the limit... lighten everything

LW.

[Merli]

I think carbon shafts are overkill but what about cheaper and more conventional items like lightened flywheels (I have a Toda!) and if you're really serious, lightened internals.

What else can we do to make the motor spin up with such ease?

T.

They're not overkill if that's your only option.

Those Carbon prop shafts drop like 7-8 kgs from the rotational mass... How else are you going to do that? Can't shave that much weight off the crank, rods or pistons because you'll be affecting strength...

Pulleys? How much weight do they save? 500g? 1kg?

What else? Carbon Prop Shaft

[T0nyGTSt]

Does anyone have any ballpark on a composite prop shaft?

Is is horrendously expensive and is there perhaps a local non ferrous example?

T.

[Evo_Lee]

when you get up close and personal with these cars, as rezz has noted, you start to understand just how amazingly crafted they are - it's not just a case of stripping out these days

Very up close and personal there Brian...

The new Tsukaba King

[Merli]

What a beast! Any specs on that car? What time did it set at Tsukuba?

[T0nyGTSt]

What a beast! Any specs on that car? What time did it set at Tsukuba?

This thread would be of interest:

http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...readid=67171607

T.

[T0nyGTSt]

Oh yeah and thanks to those SAU regulars coming up with the goods!

T.

[SS8_Gohan]

If i don't buy this property i'm looking at, the 34 i'll be bringing in has always going to be a "response R34". Don't care about the drags at all. I think Troy aka ylwgtr might be the man to ask about a Carbon prop shaft.

My plan was to get a kick ass supsension setup, with some real good paws (light rims and tyres). Whiteline had quicker cars at the drag strip with considerably less engine mods on their cars bcos they had much better suspension setups. So make ur car go faster without making any intake/exhaust/engine mods. And then i guess once u got that down, try and trim some weight. But i suppose things like, FMIC, more boost, exhaust, CAI would be needed. And i guess a really good tune. Altho i really know nothing about internals, so in the search for response, i'm not sure what priority would be. I think i would head suspension first, with good rims and tyres.

anyways, would love to hear bout what other ppl think would be like the Top 5 things to do in search for response!

[Sydneykid]

Hi Daniel, 5 things to do for response, not in any order;

1. Adj cam pulleys, tuned for response not max power

Or even better, (on RB25's) Tomei 256/260 Poncams (the "or" because their standard cam timing doesn't seem to need adjusting). For RB20's a set of RB26 cams is a good, cheaper alternative. For RB26's the standard cams are hard to beat.

2. Wastegate actuator with the spring rate as close to your boost max as possible and a boost controller (electronic or manual) that limits early wastegate opening

3. The right size turbo/turbos for your power target, bigger is not always better

4. Combination split dump and engine pipe, you need a combo because the replacement split dumps only, are too short and don't keep the wastegate exhaust away from the turbine for long enough (needs to be 400 mm minimum). In this case, longer is better. You need to follow it up with a good exhaust system.

5. Tuning, tuning, tuning it's the most important. I like to use lots of ignition timing, if you want to build some safety into the tune, then use a slightly richer A/F ratio. This costs a bit of HP but doesn't dull the response like retarding the ignition timing.

These are the things you should do, but almost as important are the things you shouldn't do;

A. Don't lower the compression ratio, it is the biggest killer of response, after ignition timing.

B. On a GTR don't touch the standard plenum, throttle bodies or inlet manifold. I have yet to see anything that improves the standard system's response. There is a strong argument for retaining the RB20/25 inlet as well.

C. The standard intercooler pipework diameter is good for most road/track cars. Be very careful about increasing the internal volume of the air flow system, this applies equally to the intercooler. Once again bigger is not always better.

D. The standard ignition system is perfectly OK for applications up to 650'ish bhp.

E. When you replace the clutch, as you will, don't go for the heaviest flywheel and pressure plate combo. You will find there are lighter combo that do the job just as well (if not better) and don't dull the response like a heavy combo does.

Enough from me, what do the others think?

[meshmesh]

SydneyKid

*1. For RB26's the standard cams are hard to beat.*

Why do people swear that cams are a must? I think I read a post of yours, saying the RB26 has 248~ cams. I was looking into a cams upgrade using stock internals with the GT2530's, but wondered which cams setting were best for my street application around 550-600hp. I noticed the Mines car has 2 types of set-ups, whats the difference and do I have to change anything else eg: valve springs... etc

IN 252°/lift 9.1mm

IN 260°/lift 10.2mm

EX 252°/lift 9.1mm

EX 252°/lift 9.5mm

*4. Combination split dump and engine pipe, you need a combo because the replacement split dumps only, are too short and don't keep the wastegate exhaust away from the turbine for long enough (needs to be 400 mm minimum). In this case, longer is better. You need to follow it up with a good exhaust system.

In other words dont bother with the HKS Dumps? I figured whilst they're fitting my GT2530's I could fit a set of HKS Split dumps at the same time. Cause the ones your talking about [Trust] are worth a fortune. But your not the first to say this, my tuner said the difference between the HKS dumps & stock dumps was virtually nothing. :confused:

Does anyone on here run a carbon prop? Anyone know where to source one? What about a Carbon Kevlar prop?

Like this

SAU Member "Harry" from the UK has one on his car, & pointed me to a great thread that's goes into detail about them. From what I remember, they cost around $2-2.5K, weigh about 8kg compared to 14kg, and did have drawbacks, something along the lines of reliability & could cause stress on other components. best to read the thread, or maybe someone else can correct me.

[benm]

Another nice mod that most people don't think about, pity about the price

[lwells]

Like this

 

SAU Member "Harry" from the UK has one on his car, & pointed me to a great thread that's goes into detail about them. From what I remember, they cost around $2-2.5K, weigh about 8kg compared to 14kg, and did have drawbacks, something along the lines of reliability & could cause stress on other components. best to read the thread, or maybe someone else can correct me.

I have already read that thread. The concensus seems to be that its a great mod for response, with enough flex in the part to protect the gearbox, but with the possibility of higher wear on the rear diff.

Obviously anything with "Mines" on the side of it is going to cost a fortune, but I was hoping someone in Aus might have an actual price. Also, the Mine prop is only Carbon Fibre, so I wonder if there would be any advantages in making it from Carbon Kevlar...? Finally, it would be nice if an Australian company could come up with a design (even if it was only a direct copy) .... prices would probably be cheaper then

Lucien.

[meshmesh]

I remember seeing a thread about a mob in Queensland "I think" that make anything you want out of carbon fibre. I think theyre called carbon king .com.au or something like that.