Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Scott over at Insight Motorsport is doing a great job of tuning our 2.5L WRX on E85 race fuel.

Currently it now up to 260 KW at the wheels on 12psi only and at 6000rpm.The turbo is an HKS 3037s with a 1.12 a/r rear on it.The HKS gate is struggling to hold boost also so we are looking at upgrading it soon.

Once its all finished we hope to have it up to around 275 at those revs and boost plus we will be revving it out to about 7500-8000rpm.

Scott this it should make 300 on 12psi without really trying. Also no cam timing yet as we are just getting the car ready for the track for next Monday.

There are some pics here of the engine bay

http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.php?/...x/page__st__230

Nice, plenty of room in there.

Are there any oil draining issues running the turbo on an angle like that? I may have to do the same thing to the 3076 when I put it in.

Why such low boost with that turbo & rear housing combo?

Some sorta racing reg's?

My assumption is because the wastegate could not control boost properly they were being conservative until that is sorted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...