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I recently brought a S2 R33 GTS-T and it came with an electronic boost controller. Problem is, the seller needed to take it off for a roady, so he's left all the wiring and solenoids in there ready to hook back up.

In the mean time, he connected up the plumbing back to the stock solenoid but I'm having issues with the car running too much boost and having boost cut kick in (rich and retard is what I found when I used the search function). I'm having a hunch that he did a dodge job of hooking it all back up, and in fact the solenoid isnt doing its job properly now.

So was wondering if people could post picces of how their stock solenoid is plumbed cos think he might of did it wrong.

Ill post pics of what mine looks like later tonight so maybe a few of the gurus around here can diagnose it for me.

Cheers.

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He pulled the EBC out and I haven't found the time to get the car on the dyno to get it all setup, so I'm just after the stock settings for now.

After scouring various topics, I came back with these:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...+stock+solenoid

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...+stock+solenoid

Sorry I haven't got any pics of mine yet, but the plumbing for the top soleoid nipple goes to the wastgate actuator and the bottom solenoid nipple goes to the inlet. There's no T-piece at all and the two lines are independent to each other.

Bear in mind I'm running a blitz front mount.

Cheers.

Sorry for the bad quality phone pic, but like I mentioned, the top of the solenoid is plumbed directly to the wastgate whilst the bottom of the solenoid is plumbed into the cooled side of the intercooler piping, just abit before the cross over pipe.

p1208100716.jpg

How should I re-route these so that I can run near stock boost levels of 7psi without hitting R&R/boost cut, beacuse I have a feeling I'm hitting it due to the solenoid not being plumbed properly.

Cheers.

Edited by turbodragon

For reference, the stock setup is alluded to in the first picture in this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...st-t185848.html

I'd say your cars hitting R&R because the wastegate isn't opening in your setup as intended, because its not getting the 5psi "signal" from the intercooler piping until the boost solenoid opens at 4500rpm. The boost solenoid is supposed to be connected between the intercooler piping and the wastegte actuator using a T piece, so the wastegate is always getting a "signal", and the stock boost controller merely modifies that signal pressure in order to achieve a higher boost by bleeding off 2psi.

I'd guess you car is running infinite boost below 4500rpm and 5psi above 4500rpm. Simple fix would be to connect the intercooler pipe straight to the actuator, that way at lest it wont overboost, instead you'll have a constant 5psi (or 7psi, as the manual will say, or 6psi, as I found with this setup on my car, so who knows, lol, but between 5-7) all the time.

Edited by YawRate

Cheers for that Yawrate. So what you're saying is, going by the pic I posted, is to run the 2nd line (the one coming off the lower solenoid nipple) and and get a tee-piece and connect that to the wastegate, so that both the top and bottom lines are connected to the wastegate? Cos in the pic in the link you posted, the top line runs to the intercooler, but cos I'm running an aftermarket Blitz one, I don't think it even has the fittings for it to be fitted :P

But what about the open nipple on the crossover pipe that its connected to now (same as the one shown in the link you posted)? Do I plug it up or should there be something running to it as well?

If thats the case, I'd just bypass the solenoid (ie connect the two lines going into/out of your boost solenoid together). That'll give you 5psi (safe but slow), then in future, if you want more boost, plumb your boost controller (the one thats been removed) back into that spot between those two lines and you could adjust it for more boost.

Alright no dramas then. I'll give it a shot abit later today. :)

So before I do something stupid, I connect the lines together on the solenoid (top nipple connect to the bottom nipple) and just have the line from the cooler pipe (the one thats connected to the top nipple in the pic I posted above) connect straight to the wastgate yeah? So the solenoid isn't actually connnected to anything in terms of piping or turbo/wastegate?

Cheers.

Edited by turbodragon
Alright no dramas then. I'll give it a shot abit later today. :D

So before I do something stupid, I connect the lines together on the solenoid (top nipple connect to the bottom nipple) and just have the line from the cooler pipe (the one thats connected to the top nipple in the pic I posted above) connect straight to the wastgate yeah? So the solenoid isn't actually connnected to anything in terms of piping or turbo/wastegate?

Cheers.

Yeah, thats how my R33 was connected when I first got it ie. straight to the actuator, using a single piece of 6mm vacuum hose, boost solenoid not connected to any vacuum lines (with the other vacuum line you car doesn't have blocked up). Everything ran fine, I have since plumbed a manual boost controller into that line, because I wanted a bit more boost.

To reiterate, with this plumbing, your wastegate will now open at whatever the actuator pressure is supposed to be (5psi for auto, 7psi for manual, apparently), so no overboosting causing R&R. For refernce the stock gauge will then read at approximately half (~3.5mmHg). You shouldn't have any ECU issues at this boost level, it should be well within the control range for the stock ECU.

Problem sorted!! :)

I found the missing line cos he had hidden it. It's the one that normally runs from the re-circulating pipe of the BOV to the top nipple of the solenoid but cos he hid it and put a screw threw it (obviously to disable it), I couldn't run the stock boost setup.

But all good now, all hooked up and running ~7psi up to 4500rpm before it hits high boost of ~10psi, which im guessing is normal for a exhaust/cooler/intake setup.

Thanks :action-smiley-069:

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