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Hi everyone

Excuse all other posts I have made and do not question about why buying this car over another etc..... Just need good old fashioned help :D

The two cars I am interested in now is the lexus/toyota soarer, the twin turbo, and the 3L non turbo.

Lets say since insurance is bad at my age, I buy the 3L non turbo one. In about a year, I would want to start gettin high performance out of the car and would want to make it turbo.

Would the way to go be (1) replacing the 3L engine with the twin turbo soarer one, or (2) leave the 3L and get aftermarket turbo put on it. Or (3) get a totally different turbo'd engine. <-----------^

Could you please analyse the 3 scenarios in the above paragraph and give me the best way it could be done, and how much each way would cost.

Thanks heaps

-Dale

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Short answer is i dont know...doesnt the older boxy Soarer comein 3L (7MGTE), the later model came in 2.5TT (1JZGTE) or 4.0 V8. Talk to workshops re your best options, im guessing they all involve serious money, ie 10k+

Cheapest option is getting a turbo 7MGTE from a wrecker, perhaps even just the manifold and turbo, but this means new computer as the std Toyota MAP ecus aint all that flexible, so perhaps stick with the front cut option. Good thing is thye are cheap as they can have head gasket issues, and manuals are plentiful.

Best option from a performance perspective would be a 1JZGTE front cut, but most of these are autos.

I suspect if you are going to go down the engine conversion path then an OZ delivered JZA70 Supra with the 3.0L NA six which still has something like 150-160kws...or an NA Series IV RX7 is going to be a better option. Have you thought about these sorts of cars.

Cheaper initial purchase price, cheaper upgrades, and better basis for a performance car... sorry if that doesnt help.

EDIT

The SC300 Soarer does come with an NA 2JZGE engine (NA 3.0L used in the JZA80 Supra)... so goign to a 1JZGTE - 2.5L TT or even the 3.0L TT 2JZGTE would be made a lot easier, if still reasonably expensive

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i'm assuming you are talking about the 1991+ soarers

if not then don't bother with soarers as the early (pre-1991) ones have the 7M-GTE engine which burns oil like you wouldn't believe, and has terrible issues with blown head gaskets (i know from first-hand experience)...

seems to be some confusion, so soearer comes in:

2.5TT (1JZ-GTE) - also in jza70 supra

4.0V8 (1U-FE)

3.0NA (2JZ-GE) - same as jza80 NA supra

as said by someone previously, don't bother trying to convert the NA to a turbo, as you won't have an LSD in the NA, the brakes will be crappy in comparison, the gearbox may be different and not able to cope wit h the extra torque, and the amount of parts needed for the change will result in a sizable bill at the end of it all.

best option in my opinion:

buy a 2.5TT, and get 3rd party insurance

good luck with it all,

Waz.

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I agree with Waz on this, but I have seen a very nice example where one guy converted his 2JZ-GE to a GTE. He didn't do an engine swap, just changed a fair few parts and put on some monster brakes. Not sure about the LSD though. Anyway, you're still better off with the 1JZ if you need the power. The 2JZ-GEs still go quite well though, so I don't think you'll be too disappointed with it if you did go that way.

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Dont do ANY engine swap or conversion.

The Soarer Twin Turbos are that cheap to buy and the V8' and TT versions are almosts equally sought after.

When you want performance, sell the 3.0L and purchase a TT. A conversion would be extremely expensive on such a car and the electrics are renowned for being a pain in the butt.

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oh and on the note of insurance (you mentioned this so i assume its an issue for you):

i pay $400 for thrid party without fire and theft and i consider this reasonable enough...

in the 4 years i have insured the cars i have owned, i have saved about $3000-5000 each year that would have been blown on full comprehensive insurance and even if i write off my car tomorrow the money i have saved allows enough for the purchases of a new one!

if you have decent driver training behind you then just stick to third party and drive responsibly... and save $$$$

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