Jump to content
SAU Community

Drivers Side Door

RUNVS

By RUNVS,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

RUNVS Rookie

RUNVS

Posted
Posted

I'll keep it nice and short. I locked my car keys in :P, I left them in the ignition with the radio turned on and went to plays sports. When I realized that I locked my self out, I called the RAA. They came around and could not open the drivers side door. It is a 4 door R33. The rear and passenger side doors open, but I can't open my drivers side door even with the key now. Does any body know what the f is going on? Please help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332862-drivers-side-door/
Share on other sites
RUNVS Rookie

RUNVS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
on mine my key has to be in a very exact position before the drivers door will open

The thing is the key does open all the other doors even when used at the drivers side lock, it just rebounds back and locks them all again. Even when I'm inside and push the lock nob to open, it opens all the other doors (except drivers side) but then rebounds and locks them again. Its so god damn annoying that I'm almost ready to cut the trim out and see what the hell is going on :P !

Edited by RUNVS
pistol-pete Veteran

pistol-pete

Posted
Posted
The thing is the key does open all the other doors even when used at the drivers side lock, it just rebounds back and locks them all again. Even when I'm inside and push the lock nob to open, it opens all the other doors (except drivers side) but then rebounds and locks them again. Its so god damn annoying that I'm almost ready to cut the trim out and see what the hell is going on :P !

take the skin off and see. theres only 4 screws from memory on a 33, 1 in the handle and 3 at the bottom.

bezender Grand Master

bezender

Posted
Posted
I'll keep it nice and short. I locked my car keys in :thanks: , I left them in the ignition with the radio turned on and went to plays sports. When I realized that I locked my self out, I called the RAA. They came around and could not open the drivers side door. It is a 4 door R33. The rear and passenger side doors open, but I can't open my drivers side door even with the key now. Does any body know what the f is going on? Please help.

have you tried disconnecting the battery, then trying the key?

might be central locking gone mad, and not having power run through it could do the trick.... if the central locking motor has seized, u might have to sacrifice a door trim.

::::EDIT::::

judging by ur other post, the motor may have seized, or the relay has gone tits up

RUNVS Rookie

RUNVS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
have you tried disconnecting the battery, then trying the key?

might be central locking gone mad, and not having power run through it could do the trick.... if the central locking motor has seized, u might have to sacrifice a door trim.

::::EDIT::::

judging by ur other post, the motor may have seized, or the relay has gone tits up

Yeah, I tried the battery trick. Still the same story.

I guess I'm looking for a door trim now or a price on getting this door working again :banana:. Either way I got to do something, luckily It's a weekend car.

Anyway thanks for your help.

MOBASS Collaborator

MOBASS

Posted
Posted

With the battery disconnected. Try the key in the door, at worst you may have to hold the key in the unlock position whilst opening the door. The door should open.

If this is what you tried then it sounds like you are up for a new lock mechanism.

Or if you are lucky it might be that the RAA guy has just bent something.

Best of luck

Simon

SkyHi_33 Mentor

SkyHi_33

Posted
Posted

ive had this happen on my passanger door also, its a loose wire clip that holds the auto lock mechanism together. I had to pull the exterior trim out carefully and mess around with a coat hanger to hold the wire in a certain position where i could open the damn door.

just take your door trim off and follow the locking wire all the way back to the servo, im sure youll find where the problem is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...