Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Riceline, in your picture you cut off the 4th connection, the one that goes to the PCV valve on the plenum.  It is on the cam cover juts down from the blue one in your picture.

If you open up the angle of the photo a bit so we can see the inlet plenum, then I can draw on your picture the choices you have for plumbing up a catch can.  Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right. :P

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

Exactly the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements.

I call the choices :cheers: ;

1. 100% plumb back

2. 50% plumb back

3. Zero% plumb back

Anyway, more when the picture is up. :wave:

So what options do/dont u have if your catch can isnt vented?

I have a trust can which is basically hollow but looks cool.. not vented.. u know the one.

Whats the best option for say; 230rwkw or less, running either standard or hiflowed turbo, big intercooler, on 12psi constantly?

I think this suits alot of people...

Is this right?

Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can;

The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe. The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off. You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like. Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can.

The other 2 options follow in separate posts. :D

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :D is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :) is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

Good question R31 POWER, but if your engine has enough blow by to cause idling problems, then it is not the blow by that you should be worried about. :spew:

Sorry for the delay, virus on the laptop :type:

This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve;

It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework.

The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh:

The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered.

SK,

How would you plumb it, if emissions were not an issue, as in a 100% race engine. Metohd 1, 2 or 3 ?

On the race cars we run open to atmosphere. We do run 2 pipes to the catch can and remove the joiner (standard) pipe between the cam covers. It's not really necessary on a road or combo car though, the one pipe does the job OK.

Hope that helps :)

So, would it be acceptable to plumb the PCV line to the catch tank, and leave the joiner as is, with the tank vented to atmosphere ?

As long as you block off the unused plumbing and fittings. I gotta ask why though? :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...