Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, did a quick search here, and learnt that people are saying that the fuel air ratio guages you install arnt accurate and are just for show, is this correct? id really like to install one just to make sure my mixtures are fine through the rpm range.

how do you go about installing them? are they wires into the o2 sensor on the dump? any ideas?

ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/
Share on other sites

Just for show, they are completely useless without a wideband o2 sensor.

can you explain more about this wideband o2 sensor? is it just a different type of sensor? or is this the probe they shove up your zorst when your on the dyno?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5406808
Share on other sites

Yes different type of sensor. Narrow band sensors use a very non-linear output, so just uses the outputs of lean (100-200mV) and rich (650-800mV) and has nothing inbetween, so when it calculates the air/fuel ratio it does not have a very broad range and hence will change very steeply. This type of sensor is also temperature dependant, so will change depending on if the engine is warm or cold. So the gauge will tell you that the mixture is stoich and fine, when in actual fact it is bordering on lean and then if something goes wrong your engine will lean out and detonate before the gauge even registers that something is wrong.

Wideband sensors on the other hand have a very linear output of 0-5V, and are not temperature dependant. So they will give a very accurate reading of what your a/f ratios actually are and will warn you well before your engine reaches a dangerous a/f ratio.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5406844
Share on other sites

Yes different type of sensor. Narrow band sensors use a very non-linear output, so just uses the outputs of lean (100-200mV) and rich (650-800mV) and has nothing inbetween, so when it calculates the air/fuel ratio it does not have a very broad range and hence will change very steeply. This type of sensor is also temperature dependant, so will change depending on if the engine is warm or cold. So the gauge will tell you that the mixture is stoich and fine, when in actual fact it is bordering on lean and then if something goes wrong your engine will lean out and detonate before the gauge even registers that something is wrong.

Wideband sensors on the other hand have a very linear output of 0-5V, and are not temperature dependant. So they will give a very accurate reading of what your a/f ratios actually are and will warn you well before your engine reaches a dangerous a/f ratio.

ok so what do these sensors look like? the good ones i mean? are they practical? or are they something only dyno places have?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5406853
Share on other sites

They are exactly the same as a narrow band gauge, they are a gauge. Wideband just refers to the type of sensor the gauge uses.

A fairly popular brand is AEM: http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air...8af52a2bdk5t456

They are not really practical because they are hugely expensive. They are pretty pointless (read unnecessary) unless you are using it for tuning purposes. So what do you want an a/f gauge for? You may find that an exhaust gas temperature gauge will suit your needs better, as you can use it to 'assume' your a/f ratio and makes for a pretty good general monitoring tool.

Edited by Hanaldo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5406932
Share on other sites

They are exactly the same as a narrow band gauge, they are a gauge. Wideband just refers to the type of sensor the gauge uses.

A fairly popular brand is AEM: http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air...8af52a2bdk5t456

They are not really practical because they are hugely expensive. They are pretty pointless (read unnecessary) unless you are using it for tuning purposes. So what do you want an a/f gauge for? You may find that an exhaust gas temperature gauge will suit your needs better, as you can use it to 'assume' your a/f ratio and makes for a pretty good general monitoring tool.

ok, i dont need it that bad to pay alot of money for, its just a precaution thing.

(bolt text) how so? how do you go about setting that up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5407015
Share on other sites

as above. the narrowband o2 sensor will read anything richer than about 14:1 as rich and anything leaner than about 15:1 as lean. they will read stoich as anything in the middle.

yes people are right when they tell you that the air fuel gauges that hook into your factory o2 sensor aren't accurate. when you floor it it simply goes into the rich section of the gauge, even if the AFR is leaner than what you want (such as 13.5:1 at WOT).

the only thing they are good for is telling you if your o2 sensor is working properly or not.

and they look cool if you like flashy lights like i do, which is why i bought one back before i even knew the first thing about air/fuel ratios. i just wanted it because it had flashy lights. it could've been a gauge to tell me what the air condition was doing and i probably would've bought it at the time, LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5407042
Share on other sites

as above. the narrowband o2 sensor will read anything richer than about 14:1 as rich and anything leaner than about 15:1 as lean. they will read stoich as anything in the middle.

yes people are right when they tell you that the air fuel gauges that hook into your factory o2 sensor aren't accurate. when you floor it it simply goes into the rich section of the gauge, even if the AFR is leaner than what you want (such as 13.5:1 at WOT).

the only thing they are good for is telling you if your o2 sensor is working properly or not.

and they look cool if you like flashy lights like i do, which is why i bought one back before i even knew the first thing about air/fuel ratios. i just wanted it because it had flashy lights. it could've been a gauge to tell me what the air condition was doing and i probably would've bought it at the time, LOL

ha, get one fo yo jazz homes, might even make it faster to!

ok, so what i can do to monitor the a/f rations properly is nothing unless i wanna pay big bucks? that sucks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5407058
Share on other sites

Wideband sensors themselves are easily damaged by water/condensation so are impractical for daily use (even the cheaper Bosch one is about $200 to replace), plus you would need to get a hole drilled into the side of an exhaust part (dump or frontpipe) for the sensor to go in, as they get damaged easily when they are mounted from the bottom pointing up.

As for kits locally, just an example: http://www.mmsport.com.au/products/955/NGK...Wideband-Sensor

AEM is UEGO is probably the cheapest of the kits at $250-$300 imported from the US

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5407176
Share on other sites

I wouldn't even bother with it dude, it's not really a practical tool for day to day use.

EGT gauges are pretty good because they are affordable, and once you get to know the 'norm' for your car you can figure out if something is going wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5407446
Share on other sites

ha, get one fo yo jazz homes, might even make it faster to!

ok, so what i can do to monitor the a/f rations properly is nothing unless i wanna pay big bucks? that sucks...

i think you have me mistaken for eps, dumbass

and if you want to monitor your AFR's just stick it on a dyno every 6 months or so. you should notice any issues with it starting to lean out as it won't feel like it normally does (like hanaldo said).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5408282
Share on other sites

Only useful if you plan to adjust your own mixtures obviously.

My unit cost $250 delivered and is still going strong 8 months later, should last 80,000k's if mounted correctly just like the stock ones.

what unit is that?

yea i think its most practical to just dyno it every now and then...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5408750
Share on other sites

Not even that man, just get a good ecu and get it tuned by a good tuner. It shouldn't be leaning out unless something is wrong, in which case you will notice and THEN you can take it to a dyno to sort it out. There's no point chucking it on the dyno every so while just to see what the AFR's are doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5408787
Share on other sites

clutch - u can have my brand new autometer narrow band a/f gauge for like 40 bucks if you want (its been in a box in my garage for about 4 years now)

i apreaciate it mate, but after reading the above info, they dont look like they work :S

thanks anyway man

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333545-fuel-air-guage/#findComment-5409250
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...