Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whichever one(s) make your heart skip a beat,

get them thoroughly inspected by state roads or another reputable inspection agency. That $200 you spend now could save you thousands of mulla in rebuilds etc later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333637-buying-a-v35/#findComment-5408130
Share on other sites

Whichever one(s) make your heart skip a beat,

get them thoroughly inspected by state roads or another reputable inspection agency. That $200 you spend now could save you thousands of mulla in rebuilds etc later on.

+1

Its amazing how many people I meet who buy 2nd hand cars and don't know about getting them inspected.

Even buying 2nd hand from a Dealer, who knows what they are trying to get away with??

I suppose its illegal to to tell a customer that the car hasn't been in an accident when it has, but if its an import I suppose they can claim denial-ability because it all happened overseas..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333637-buying-a-v35/#findComment-5408189
Share on other sites

Ask to see the auction sheet, and don't take any excuses from them, they keep those on file and if they won't show you, then I would conclude they are hiding something.

When you get the auction sheet, make sure the numbers match the vehicle you are looking at, sometimes they'll give you one for another vehicle and since its in japanese, hope you won't notice but the numbers don't lie. If you don't know how to decipher the auction sheet, google around and you'll find the info showing what each letter and number means.

Also, not critical and most often not available but will help you make a decision, ask if it has logbooks and if the odometer reading has been certified.

Apart from that, do the usual checking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333637-buying-a-v35/#findComment-5408205
Share on other sites

I suppose its illegal to to tell a customer that the car hasn't been in an accident when it has

incorrect. on many levels for many reasons

Ask to see the auction sheet, and don't take any excuses from them, they keep those on file and if they won't show you, then I would conclude they are hiding something.

also incorrect. is this the royal 'they'? I saw no mention of buying from an importer, so it is entirely reasonable to assume that many purchasers of these cars no longer have this detail, especially ones that have changed hands on a few occassions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333637-buying-a-v35/#findComment-5408966
Share on other sites

incorrect. on many levels for many reasons

also incorrect. is this the royal 'they'? I saw no mention of buying from an importer, so it is entirely reasonable to assume that many purchasers of these cars no longer have this detail, especially ones that have changed hands on a few occassions.

true that...i doubt they have a duty of disclosure to supply the buyer with auction grade certificates...maybe import and export permits and any duty paid and so forth...but not auction grade certs ...some would probably be happy to supply them if requested

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333637-buying-a-v35/#findComment-5409224
Share on other sites

That's a roger on getting them inspected. Know of a places where they used to sell trashed imports as if they never had an accident and never told the buyers. Those car yards went but but you can bet it still appens all over.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333637-buying-a-v35/#findComment-5409314
Share on other sites

also incorrect. is this the royal 'they'? I saw no mention of buying from an importer, so it is entirely reasonable to assume that many purchasers of these cars no longer have this detail, especially ones that have changed hands on a few occassions.

I'm working on the assumption that he would be buying from a car yard, this should be apparent based on the advice I gave. Having said that, your response is irrelevant. By the way, if you're going to be a smart ass online, perhaps you should at least start your sentences with capitals and spell correctly.

true that...i doubt they have a duty of disclosure to supply the buyer with auction grade certificates...maybe import and export permits and any duty paid and so forth...but not auction grade certs ...some would probably be happy to supply them if requested

Car yards that sell import vehicles source them from any number of different auction houses in Japan and an auction sheet is part of the procurement process. Of course they don't have a 'duty of disclosure', but an auction report is something I always ask for and 9 times out of 10 I get it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333637-buying-a-v35/#findComment-5409315
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...