Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

try the 3071 then with small exhaust wheel

the size of ur turbo ultimately depends on how hardcore you've built your bottom end

ive only even looked at rb26 twin turbo setups myself because i want the exact opposite of you, however there are a few words that stick out ..

"High Mount T51R"

I dont know what it means :D

Maybe u wanna do some research heh

-D

f**k lag, you could have all the power in the world and still get nowhere compaired to someone with half the power.

go a hks 2510 if you can find a decent one around. great turbo for 2ltr's.

makes 200-230rwk's easy and super responsive so great for street and drift (if thats what your into)

or a 2530 would be my next pick depending what i wanted to do with my car. (prob more suited for the rb20)

Edited by Import S13

i wouldnt bother trying to get 300kw's out of an rb20.

could spend half the amount you would making 300kw on the 20 if you just engine swap for a 25 and run a bigger turbo with suporting mods.

would probably be more reliable too at that sort of power.

How about a GT2860R?

Same as HKS 2530 Abe

300kw on a RB20 is likely to be (will be) rather (very) laggy. 240rwkw on a RB20 is pretty quick! Not something to be sneezed at. Also, dont know how fond RB20 internals are of that amount of power...

Garret 2871R could be good also.

not concerned about lag eh?

sweet.

t66 at 2 bar. no boost until late in 4th gear.

or, be sensible and get a hks 2535 for $1300 from JIS.

Edited by scandyflick

300 out of rb20 then expect monster lag unless you throw a lot of coin at it....and trust me you will be hating it with massive lag...i am chasing that power out of my rb25 and still looking at reducing lag as much as possible....sell your 20 and chuck in a 25 with a decent turbo....you will be much happier with 300 our of a rb2t then a 20....

or, be sensible and get a hks 2535 for $1300 from JIS.

This.

sell your 20 and chuck in a 25 with a decent turbo....you will be much happier with 300 our of a rb2t then a 20....

Definitely this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...