Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just finished my turbo conversion in the uk and made 310 bhp and 275 lb/ft torque at 9psi would highly recomend this conversion to any one . Thanks for the idear and info 666DAN with out this forum and your info i would still be driving a 200ish bhp A/N and wanting more power . So thanks again ;) i have added a pic of what she look like .

Nice effort!!! Glad you gleaned some useful info from this thread :P It is worth doing and can be done very well as your numbers prove.

thanks guys just what i wanted to hear, i wont want to do any tuning or boosting, just want low boost to give some decent low down torque that the n/a sucks arse at.... so i should definately use the rb25det ecu, and what turbo will best suit the rb25de, the rb20 or rb25 turbo? and will i have to mod my loom at all for the turbo ecu

If you upgrade the injectors, fuel reg and fuel pump to GTSt spec, then the RB25DET ECU will be fine and be plug 'n' play. Bolt on an RB25DET turbo and run at stock actuator pressure and it should all work a treat.

Don't get a smaller turbo as it will spool *way* too early.

  • 3 weeks later...

It's not so much about the power numbers but the response with running an engine spec like this. Run with an intelligent tune there is no reason why it wouldn't/couldn't be reliable, possibly more economical, and with the sort of power that works well on the street.

That said, do we have any dyno sheets of any description?

Here's a graph of my RB25DET running 12psi to achieve 300hp. It's not overpowering, but very useful and responsive. The dip right at the top end is from pulling ignition to combat knock. I've considered that a well thought-out DE-spec engine with similar power numbers would be even nicer, response wise on the street. Perhaps water-meth is the key to making one detonation proof?

post-19642-1175082170.jpg

Edited by Dale FZ1
  • 1 month later...

how hard/difficult would it be to take out the rb25de from an r33 series 2 manual, and put in an rb25det engine and ecu?

what would be needed? would all the wiring match up? im guessing it wont....

any help would be great

thanks :)

It's not so much about the power numbers but the response with running an engine spec like this. Run with an intelligent tune there is no reason why it wouldn't/couldn't be reliable, possibly more economical, and with the sort of power that works well on the street.

That said, do we have any dyno sheets of any description?

Here's a graph of my RB25DET running 12psi to achieve 300hp. It's not overpowering, but very useful and responsive. The dip right at the top end is from pulling ignition to combat knock. I've considered that a well thought-out DE-spec engine with similar power numbers would be even nicer, response wise on the street. Perhaps water-meth is the key to making one detonation proof?

post-19642-1175082170.jpg

This is the dyno sheet for my turboed RB25DE at 9psi

post-25857-1179217398_thumb.jpg

Edited by shawny
This is the dyno sheet for my turboed RB25DE at 9psi

Hi Shawny,

Nice numbers. What mods do you have on your car? I am a new member here, from Canada, and have been having all sorts of troubles. If you can help me with stuff here, I would be grateful. I have an RB25DE with an R33 turbo on it, Trust FMIC, 370cc injectors, Turbosmart BOV and boost controller, with stock RB20DET ECU and Gredy E-Manage). Everything else is stock from my RB20DET days. Since they are new to Canada (how pathetic this is, lol), not many people know how to fix a Skyline, at least not as much as Australia or UK or Japan.

I am having troubles with idling (The TPS I am using is for the RB25DE, but my ECU is RB20DET, and the AAC valve is not working)....the cars sputters and backfires a lot, it hesitates under load and when I give gas. The power just doesnt seem to be there. Right now, after being dynoed once (260 rwhp), it has started sputtering between 2000-4000 rpm range, and the sudden bog/hesitation is still there. I dont know what is going on. What do you suggest? Also, please do share what youve done to your motor to get such impressive numbers. My motor also has the VCT on the intake side, but I dont know how to activate it with a switch.

Thanks,

Judas

Edited by Judasentinel666
  • 1 month later...

i have a neo st8 6 is it easy to fit a turbo on it i have been told

to Find a R33 with a turbo and fit it... (cheeper option)

and to fit a kit (if i can find one) will be around 13,000 bucks

but its hard to find one because the darn company went in 2 relaps and stop making turbos 4 the

neo st8 6

errr have u not read the start of the post dinobones? all u need is just a stock R34 turbo with FMIC/or SMIC with standard turbo computer and the oil lines tapped and water lines etc....then your all good to turbo and do something with the timing and thats it :P no need 13 000

CHeers

Chi

Munib, are u sure the car is not going into rich and retard, i had same sort of prob when i had a piggy backed na ecu, microtech solved my dramas but some sort of timing control is akll u might need

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...