Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What can people suggest in the way of cheap semis, new or second hand, for 235 17's I bought a learner set from Donnelans a while back and they were only $260 delivered to Albury, granted they were nothing special condition wise but they've done me alright for 3-4 track days to learn on. I'm happy enough in my braking and the balance of the car that I can afford to buy some better second handers or maybe even something new as I won't be flat spotting them hopefully.

I'm also after cheapy Toe Arms for the S13, I've used ISC rear camber arms and they were decent for the money. His toe arms are about 180 and I've seen sets on ebay for around $100, not sure on quality though.

Given the car is only a CA and doesn't run blistering laps times it's not going to be critical but has anyone had any experience with anything cheaper than the isc items?

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334146-cheapo-semis-and-toe-arms/
Share on other sites

The KU36's seem to be quite popular, though not a semi slick, but I'm guessing that lap times on a new set of those would be similar and possibly better than what I'm getting on these thrashed semis. Is there a semi that's comparable cost wise?

The KU36's seem to be quite popular, though not a semi slick, but I'm guessing that lap times on a new set of those would be similar and possibly better than what I'm getting on these thrashed semis. Is there a semi that's comparable cost wise?

I was still considerably faster on thrashed re55's than i was on fed 595rs's. Unless you have AO48's, then yes, all rounders will be faster if the semis have been heat cycled a fair bit. The kumho semis would be the pick of the cheap ones but you are still looking at 1300ish. Personally i'll never bother with r888's again, they are around the same price.

On the toe arms front, I've seen 2 isc arms snap at welds. I wouldn't use them, or anything cheaper for that matter. I use D project camber and toe arms in my track car, cheapish and the quality is ok. They seem to be holding up too, plus replacement rose joints are available. Camber arms are about 3 years old now with many track days and toe arms have survived 7 or 8 track days.

Interesting in the differing opinions. the KU36 thread seemed to have some OK results when compared to flogged semis, which mine are.

The other option is finding some half decent second handers. Being heat cycled a few times from what I thought just makes the compound harder so longer to get up to temp and less grip but also harder wearing?

Edited by ActionDan

I do have two sets of rims, but I only use one set on the track and the car is pretty much track only so I can use whatever tyres I want. The street rims are just plain 5 spoke 17's with the tyres that came on the car. The track rims are 9" volks with 235 semis.

http://www.cazmanindustries.com/

he makes super high quailty parts. cost a little bit more but are full rebuildable and wont break. send him an email and see what he says.

he's highly recommended on nissansilvia.

ahh yeah I nkow Caz from NS. Good idea.

MArlin, where were you going with that second set of rims comment? I'm not worried about burning up tyres on the street as I dont street drive very often and when I do it has street rims/tyres. So I can leave my semis on the track rims. What are the mini ones setting you back and what size?

I've used the Mini ones for 270klm at Lakeside so far (at 10/10ths), and the worst of the four is maybe one third worn.

They were virtually new (maybe 5/6 laps) when I got them and they cost me $100 each plus some freight to me from Melbourne. I since found I can get in Bris for $75 each. LOL

Dan, two sets of wheels means you drive to the track and bolt on the second set that were in the boot and back seat with proper race tyres, slicks even. IMO you are over-wheeled with 9 inch rims on that car.

The Mini Challenge tyres are Dunlops, size is 215/45/17, but I measured them because they looked so much bigger, and turns out they are nearly identical in size and width to my Dunlop and Kuhmo 235/45/17's.

Edited by Marlin

I dont need to do that as the car gets towed to the track so the track rims and tyres stay on :)

That's awesome value!

I think you should PM me some details on where I can hook up with those :thumbsup:

Correction 8" fronts (or are they 8.5's? can't remember) and 9" rears. For the cost of the rims I couldn't say no. A bit of extra rim width is fine to me, they take the 235's well with nice straight sidewalls, none of this drifter stretched habib shizzle going on.

Hook me up Ben :D If they're as wide as you say they would be perfect for my car.

Awesome, thanks. If they're as wide as you say then they should fit my 9" rears without issue also. Just to confirm, you comapred your 215 mini tyre to a 235 Dunlop and Kuhmo semi or road tyre? What model is the mini tyre?

I placed them beside both 235/45/17 Kuhmo KU36 road tyre and Dunlop O3G road/race tyre and they are virtually itendical in width, so they are a 'big" 215.

I make no promised re the suitability to 9" rim.

This Dunlop slick has no info other than "Dunlop" and a big bunch of Japanese text. I suspect they are imported specifically for the Mini Challenge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...