Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Same problem here in an R32 GTR - clunks from the rear when driving harshly, so I put it over the pit and it has a ridiculous amount of play which we isolated to the rear diff. Next, is to remove the centre and get it rebuilt at a shop.

On that does anyone know a good place to go for a diff centre rebuild in Perth?

Do report back what they did to fix it and the cost, I have a similar issue with my R32 gtst.

Mike.

  • 2 years later...

Resurrecting an old thread.

I'm experiencing some play in the driveline after my recent manual conversion, two different types:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.
  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

I had a look under the car, I could rotate the front part of the tail shaft probably 2mm by hand, the rear part was harder to move. This is with the car in gear and handbrake on.

Which part of the driveline should I look at first?

What's the best way to check the condition of the tail shaft centre bearing?

From your symptom description I would suggest the centre bearing the tailshaft would be #1 suspect.

In reality, I find that it is every single point in the driveline adding up. I have play in the tailshaft, some in the diff, some in the rear CVs and some in the rear hubs. Not enough at each point to be concerned about, but added together they create a hell of an annoying clunk in my driveline.

Thanks GTSBoy, I'll start from there! I wouldn't be surprised either since the tailshaft is a combination of my R34 sedan rear half and an R33 coupe front half from the wreckers.

Just a couple of more observations from today:

  • There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed.

This seems to come from behind the driver i.e. centre bearing, diff, or drive shafts. Centre bearing is currently the prime suspect.


  • There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox?

This seems to be more in the front side so clutch or the gearbox itself. I reckon it's the latter.

I'm not too fussed about this one but the clunk on gear change is more annoying so need to get that sorted.

  • 2 weeks later...

I just checked this again with handbrake on and gearbox in neutral. There's about 8mm of play in the diff, measured on the outer ring where the tail shaft joins the diff. Not sure if this is a little or a lot?

I also did the 'diff test' and opposite wheel rotates the same way when turning so it's definitely is viscous diff. Might be time to upgrade...

Edited by V28VX37
  • 8 years later...

Most of my play is in the half shafts. What do people do about this? OEM are pretty expensive. Like $1,600 each.

I can rotate a wheel about 15-20mm at the outside of the tyre, is this too much?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...