Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sidd, its an led box I made myself in a large soft box, creates a really unique light. I need to modify the box so its easier to move now.

Kory on a white car you can shift the wb if you wanted to remove the colour.

Pez, I'm sure we can work something out. The reflections we'd get off your rims would be erection inducing.:wub: pm me your location.

Hhmmm, i didn't mean shifting the WB.

I meant, would it have a blue glow off the LEDbox or not, but looking at the photo for longer now, it seems there is reflections of the sky. Did you shoot this at sunset?

You doing multiple exposures e.g. light certain parts and blend together or are you lighting it as a whole and doing 1minute + exposures?

It's nice even light, so well done, keep practicing!!!

P.S. My LED light is on its way :)

  • Replies 313
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Kory, thanks for taking your time to write that and providing further feedback. I guess im still in that mind frame that im still a amateur compared to all these other wedding photographers out there. Once i do a few more i will increase it slightly and keep doing it till im happy. I was thinking of providing albums now. Atleast this time i know exactly what to do and will be a lot less stressed. But I want some time to myself as well.. All i do these days is work my normal fulltime job, come home and work on photos and sleep around 12-1am :) Anyways enough rambling..

90% of wedding photographers don't have any formal training, your shots don't look like an amateur so don't charge like one

problem with digital photography is it was supposed to make it easier for photographers but in actuality it has become way more time consuming... your shooting 10 times as many shots as you would on film and the time spent going through them all in post etc... instead of just dropping film off at the processors and picking it up when its done etc

so don't forget your not just charging for the time spent at the wedding but also time spent in post

good luck with it!

If you don't shift the wb a white car will have a slightly blue tint. Same as the black car.

That rear shot is 2 roughly one minute exposures. One lighting bottom half and one lighting the top half.

The other light is some ambient light from out side the alley. What you think might be sky is graffiti from behind camera. Shot was taken around 9.

Once you get your light well do a paint session.

Correcting WB is #1 step in all post processing (Well at least mine).

I meant, the cars paint, will it appear with a slight blue tint (something that is not correctable by changing the WB). But again, i still think that wouldn't happen as it would only affect the WB, but i was just curious thats all.

Yeah for sure, will let you know when i get it!

Matt, have you got the PCB diagram for your LED box? I'm starting to think about making some lighting up, and I guess LED is as good a place to start as any.

edit: Clutch: NICE! love the macro shots; what's the new lens?

thanks, the fly shot was my first one, so need to learn a bit more to get better quality

i use a tamron 90mm macro with a bellows

i have the dropplet one as my wallpaper, looks even better full size

Nice shots Clutch! They don't have to be about cars at all! Just photography in general :)

I would love to see the macro shot with more contrast (the water droplet on the leaf). Could definitely bump that up a bit more and bring the greens out and it would probably bring more of the reflection out of the water droplet.

Keep at it, great shots!

Edited by FST513

nice macro work man!!!

CPD I just made it on a vero board. I don't have a diagram for it but i could draw you something. it's pretty simple to make if you've got a soldering iron and a couple hours to kill.

cpd I just made it on a vero board. I don't have a diagram for it but i could draw you something. it's pretty simple to make if you've got a soldering iron and a couple hours to kill.

I've got *decent* soldering skillz... Heh. Vero board is fine; was just worried about resistances etc. My electronics knowledge has gone downhill since high-school; if you've got a quick sketch that'd be awesome.

thanks guise!

i dont photoshop my images, i just use lightroom to up the exposure and bits and pieces, so cant really change stuff like reflections etc.

Well in that case:

Go to the devlop tab

Put in some general settings like:

Contrast: +35

Clarity: +30

Vibrance: +15

Saturation: +5

Something along those lines is what i normally start out with.

Then go up the where the histogram is and there is a "brush". Its called the adjustment brush.

With this brush you can paint in whatever you want e.g. paint in a -2stop exposure, paint in contrast, paint in clarity etc etc..

Muck around with this. Your pictures could have so much pop once you have figured it out and you'll never look back!

Yay just bought a Nissin 622 and a the Canon 25 Extender thingy :)

The what and the what???

I'm guessing the Nissin is a flash, but the other thing, is that an extension tube, Owen?

Hahahah! Sorry, totally suck at describing things sometimes; at the time I was on the lounges at work, haven't been well this arvo.

By extender thing I mean this: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews...-ii-review.aspx

And the Nissin is a flash; someone recommended it to me on my intro thread here, and I thought hey, might as well get a flash (as well as working on an LED softbox). http://www.nissindigital.com/en/Di622.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...