Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for some feedback as per the topic description.

We have an S13 where the factory "rubber and four bolt with plastic spacers" coupling is quite worn, creating a fair bit of slop. I've since investigated my 32 and it too has some play there, though not dramatic.

Does anyone have thoughts on replacing this item with either;

A. A new factory item.

o,r B. An aftermarket billet piece.

My initial perception is that that factory is best, as I have a hunch that having this coupling solid will transfer rack rattle into the rack itself, wearing the rack prematurely as opposed to the coupling absorbing it.

Does the perceived "benefit" to more direct steering feel outweigh the concern I have?

Thanks in advance gents :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335724-steering-coupling-rack-to-column/
Share on other sites

I wouldn't be replacing a rubber coupling with solid, as this won't allow any misalignment at all. The rattles / NVH transmission wouldn't be a major drama though.

I don't know if there are harder rubber units available, or whether you can replace it with a different type of coupling (spider / uni etc). The RX2 had a spider coupling which I rebuilt with poly cushions. It tightened up the coupling, but unfortunately the rest of the RX2 steering system was made of camembert, so the thing still had terrible steering feel (despite rebuilding / replacing everything that could be unbolted).

I had one in my s13, it was a real FUN job to get out.

It did sharpen the steering up and didn't present any major vibration/feedback. However i didn't replace if fo this reason, it was more to do with a clearance issue with the slack of the column on the starter motor.

Notec used to make a replacement urethane type, but since the merger with whiteline/red ranger I can't locate them.

I've put a billit one in mine, but havn't got to use it yet... mainly cause it came in the box of bits in the car. But all the people I spoke to who have used them said it improves the wheel feel. The old one usually ends up flying accross the work shop when you go to remove it

I would suggest that the factory unit is there to reduce MVH in the steering wheel and reduce noise transfer to the cabin from the front suspension. I cannot see how it would impact on the operation of the rack or cause undue wear in the steering to replace it with something more substantial.

In our R32 we have replaced it with a billet alloy unit which seems to make the steering feel more direct. In my R33 build I am tossing up between another billet unit and one of the urethane replacement ones - either way it will not be another factory item.

I have a solid in my s13 with no power steering.

Any rack rattle, brake shudder, ripple strip hits all gets transferred straight into my hands :)

It's not a mod i'd do in anything street driven.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...