Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fella's...

Got a question for ya's where I need a bit of help or real advise on somethin please....

Got a Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump where it was running good for the first 200-300 k's and then recently while driving it's started making a louder noise as if it's still actually priming while driving. One thing I've noticed is that once it starts making this noise when i'm driving the car, it doesn't feel like it's getting enough fuel cause it feels like it's running on 5 cylinders, etc. The engine is getting enough fuel and that to keep running but if I try to accelerate more it just stutters along and then gives up at some stage and doesn't want to move.

It'll start fine when it's cold though and it'll run for a good 30-40k's and that and then once (my opinion here) it's hot (like after driving the car around for a period of time), it just doesn't want to work properly anymore.

Keen to know if anyone else has had this problem or know of this problem with these fuel pumps?

Last night I was ready to actually rip the pump out, throw it on the ground and take a sledge hammer to it. LOL

Look forward to hearin from anyone that can advise or help out with this guys :P

Can anyone else maybe recommend a replacement for this pump as well maybe?

Edited by street-gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336482-aeromotive-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

Hey fella's...

Got a question for ya's where I need a bit of help or real advise on somethin please....

Got a Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump where it was running good for the first 200-300 k's and then recently while driving it's started making a louder noise as if it's still actually priming while driving. One thing I've noticed is that once it starts making this noise when i'm driving the car, it doesn't feel like it's getting enough fuel cause it feels like it's running on 5 cylinders, etc. The engine is getting enough fuel and that to keep running but if I try to accelerate more it just stutters along and then gives up at some stage and doesn't want to move.

It'll start fine when it's cold though and it'll run for a good 30-40k's and that and then once (my opinion here) it's hot (like after driving the car around for a period of time), it just doesn't want to work properly anymore.

Keen to know if anyone else has had this problem or know of this problem with these fuel pumps?

Last night I was ready to actually rip the pump out, throw it on the ground and take a sledge hammer to it. LOL

Look forward to hearin from anyone that can advise or help out with this guys :)

Can anyone else maybe recommend a replacement for this pump as well maybe?

How much power ou making? What injectors?

A couple of hours ago, went and started it since leaving it in the garage from last night.

Started and primed perfectly fine and then once oil temp reached around the 60 mark, it started making the loud noise again.

Hadn't rev'd it or even driven it, had been sittin there for a good 10-15mins warming up.

check voltage at the pump. check for leaks and blockages in the lines and make sure the fuels not getting too hot

Hi

All braided lines and have been tested for blockage and nothing.

How much power ou making? What injectors?

only around about 260hp for now.

can't remember the injectors sorry, around 1000cc though.

Did you just pick a random sub forum to post this in or did you think the question was appropriate to be posted in the rb30 conversion section?

no, it's cause i've actually got a rb30 bottom end buddy :)

1000cc with 260hp? .. wha ..

yeh, on run in tune right now. sorry.

no, it's cause i've actually got a rb30 bottom end buddy :)

yeh, on run in tune right now. sorry.

I had something simalar to this and it was hard to find. Ended up being the pickup was collapsing on itself. When you took it out and looked at it, it looked fine, no blockage. But under load it collapsed and created a blockage.. Just a thought you could check.

As soon as I found it and replaced it, the pump was perfectly quiet.

I had something simalar to this and it was hard to find. Ended up being the pickup was collapsing on itself. When you took it out and looked at it, it looked fine, no blockage. But under load it collapsed and created a blockage.. Just a thought you could check.

As soon as I found it and replaced it, the pump was perfectly quiet.

Interesting... I highly suspect that there's nothing wrong with the pump to the extent to say "its broken, get a new one"... cause it primes ok and starts and feeds fuel to the engine still, etc so i'd say it could be something as small as this maybe.

How did you fix it? What was the problem

one of the plugs to the relay wasn't plugged in.

soon found this out when i was checking the fuses.

Doesnt it shit ya when people ask for help with a problem, fix it, then dont pass on the info that could help someone else.

yeh, it does shit yah when people don't have much time to come on and post everything about it hey... considering that 'fixed' post was posted from my iphone.

Edited by street-gtr
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
lol. always something simple.. what sort of ampage does the a1000 pull? ive seen a bosch 044 burn out a 30 amp relay.. (more to do with the poor contact with some aftermarket relay holders melting

not to sure mate.

the pump ended up being f**ked after only running on one relay.

some people who think they have a idea on how to do this shit really have no idea.

now i'm up for a new pump!!!

From what I have seen with A1000 pumps is that they really are a race use only pump, aimed at drag racing where they are only switched on for a few seconds.

From memory they are a reconfigured carburettor pump so origionally designed to run at 7-10PSI, just happens that they are big enough to push 100psi when attached to a EFI reg.

Doesnt help solve the issue I know, but just a heads up for the future.

Same goes for most Yank Pumps (SX, Magna Fuel etc)

From what I have seen with A1000 pumps is that they really are a race use only pump, aimed at drag racing where they are only switched on for a few seconds.

From memory they are a reconfigured carburettor pump so origionally designed to run at 7-10PSI, just happens that they are big enough to push 100psi when attached to a EFI reg.

Doesnt help solve the issue I know, but just a heads up for the future.

Same goes for most Yank Pumps (SX, Magna Fuel etc)

A1000 isn't much of a pump... they fail regularly in the US circles (im in the us for the last 5 years).

Look at weldon for a good solid reliable pump.

Any pump combo you get you will need some style controll. staged, pwm etc...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...