Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

r u getting the latest Whiteline's Group4 shocks? Cos these looks like coilovers from the pictures on their website.

When I got mine done, the Group4 wasn't available yet, so I got the normal shocks and springs - not coilovers.

theyre still not out yet for gtrs

Really? Man that's been a long time.... I know someone with 180sx is also still waiting for group4 shocks for his car.... been more than 6 months since they announced that new shocks...

Hey guys,

I've always leant towards the whole Whiteline kit for some reason - has anyone here had or driven in a Kings/Bilstein comparable setup to a Whiteline setup? Whiteline kit comes with Konis doesn't it ?

Would there be any major difference? I understand it's all subjective but what would the objective/technical difference be?

Also is there a difference between coilovers and shocks and springs? Is the coilover just the shock-n-spring in one unit and the shocks and springs are seperate?

What is the difference in handling and application advantages/disadvantages?

_newb_

the whiteline kit uses Bilsteins

My whiteline kit uses Koni. I was told that they used to use Bilstein but not anymore. If you're getting Whiteline kit lately, it is most likely to be Koni. Bilstein probably gives better ride than Koni but they need to be overhauled every 2 years as I was told, while Koni is maintenance free.

My Whiteline kit had DMS shocks. I think the difference between the Konis and the Bilsteins is the B's are Gas and the K's are not.

I have lurked this whole thread...it really should be sticky'd there is just so much info in it

I was interested in SK's comment that he uses up to 30% antisquat How do you change this?? My problem at the drags at the moment is I don't get any squat at all !! I have what I believe is a stock...very well used spring/shock at the rear and Whiteline Spring/DMSshocks at the front+ whiteline swaybar...stock at rear + pineapples in drag config. Even with full slicks on the rear (track Pirelli Rosso D5's) not a trace of squat???

ride hgt is 370mm f/r. Irealise that the coilovers at the front don't help but stockies are going back on after Sat Track day. Anyone like to comment??

My Whiteline kit had DMS shocks.  I think the difference between the Konis and the Bilsteins is the B's are Gas and the K's are not.

I have lurked this whole thread...it really should be sticky'd there is just so much info in it

 I was interested in SK's comment that he uses up to 30% antisquat  How do you change this??   My problem at the drags at the moment is I don't get any squat at all !! I have what I believe is a stock...very well used spring/shock at the rear and Whiteline Spring/DMSshocks at the front+ whiteline swaybar...stock at rear + pineapples in drag config. Even with full slicks on the rear (track Pirelli Rosso D5's) not a trace of squat???

ride hgt is 370mm f/r.  Irealise that the coilovers at the front don't help but stockies are going back on after Sat Track day.  Anyone like to comment??

Hi 51Jay, our adjustable Koni Sports (yellow) are gas. Koni (red) are sometimes gas, sometime not, depends on application. I don't think Whiteline still use DMS, its my understanding that they now have their own, made in Europe to their specs.

Re anti squat, where have you placed the rear pinapples, the small ones above the subframe (between the mounts and the body)? Front or rear of the sub frame?

Is this gas type Koni shocks are the same with what the authority called airbag suspension and declared illegal for road use in some states?

So far I'm happy with my Whiteline kit, just one nag is on my GTSt the kit doesn't come with easy to adjust rear ones. Not sure how this can changed to be as easy to adjust as the front ones (using provided plastic cap)... maybe welding an adjuster "pole" that can be easily reached by making a small hole over the parcel shelf?

Well, in an effort to stop the ScibyLine from acting like a boat on the straights, I've ordered a set of Bilstein shocks to replace the Pedders Comfort Gas/KYB X-Cels that I've got at the moment... I've got sports ryder springs, which I have no idea what the rates would be, but hopefully it'll be fine. Anyone have any specs for Pedders springs? Pedders themselves are useless.

The Bilsteins are now in, married to the Sports Ryders... which are still a problem. While the Bilsteins have definitely told the springs to behave, it's still on the bouncy side of perfect... but only just. The problem is that the roads I have to live with are... well... shiiiiite. No two ways about it... the Bilsteins are good, and if I move to a better-roaded area, they're just waiting for a new sit of harder springs.

$1200 fitted, but worth it, I suspect.

Anyone know where and how much for a set of King Springs lows? :P

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
Because of the extra weight, around 250 lbs front and 200 lbs rear would be OK for a GTR.  You really don't want (or need) to go much over 200 lbs in the rear of either a GTST or a GTR.  A 350 lb rate in the front springs is about the max I would recommend for a road car.

Guys;

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I was trawling through info on spring rates and found this post by Sydneykid. I was also reading the Nissan manual and (consistent with what Duncan posted elsewhere) the spring rates are listed as being heavier in the rear than the front (134 F/151 R), opposite to that suggested by SK.

I know that SK knows his stuff and I'd have also thought that heavier front than rear would make sense given the weight on the GTRs front axles but if that is the case why did Nissan specify the reverse?

SK are you out there? Anyone have any ideas?

Regards

hm.. interesting... can heavier spring rate induce more oversteer?

In a AWD system like GTR, an understeer is natural behaviour when pushed beyond its limit, characteristic of an 4WD/AWD car. When combined with stiffer front spring rate, the understeer effect can get worst.

Maybe Nissan engineer decided to put stiffer rear spring rate and softer front spring rate to dial out some of those understeer effect and to help the AWD GTR to turn in more into the corner, all in order to achieve a more balanced chassis dynamic.

This setup would be different in a RWD GTS-t because of RWD tendency to oversteer when cornering hard under power. That's how I guess on GTS-t the rear spring rate is softer than the front...

I'm no expert, so if it doesnt logic enough, feel free to discuss...

just my 2c....

"In a AWD system like GTR, an understeer is natural behaviour"

Is it? Ordinarily the GTR is rear wheel drive only, giving the car favourable rear-wheel drive characteristics until the rears reach the limit of adhesion and torque is then progressively transferred to the fronts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...